Although I could have set up a post for each county, I think it's better to treat Wales as a whole, as it is hardly bigger than the three Yorkshire counties put together!
That said, there is so much to see in Wales, this will be a long page!ABERDYFI (ABERDOVEY)
ABERYSTWYTH MOUNTAIN ROAD
BALA LAKE (LLYN TEGID)
BEDDGELERT
BETWYS-Y-COED
BLAENAU FFESTINIOG
BRECON BEACONS (BANNAU BRYCHEINIOG)
BRECON MOUNTAIN RAILWAY
BUILTH WELLS
BULL BAY
CAERNARFON
CAERPHILLY CASTLE
CAPEL CURIG
CHEPSTOW
CHIRK (Y WAUN)
CLAERWEN VALLEY
CONWY CASTLE
CORRIS
CORS DYFI
CRICCIETH
ELAN VALLEY
FLINT
HARLECH
HAY-ON-WYE
KNUCKLAS
LAKE VYRNWY
LLANBERIS
LLANBRYNMAIR
LLANFAIR PG (NOPE, NOT TYPING OUT THE WHOLE THING!)
LLANGOLLEN
LLANSTUMDWY
LLYN MWYNGIL
LLYN PADARN
MACHYNLLETH
MINILLYN (DINAS MAWDDWY)
MONMOUTH
NEW QUAY
PENRHYN
PONT KEMYS
PONTCYSYLLTE AQUADUCT
PORT MEIRION
RAGLAN CASTLE
SKENFRITH
SNOWDONIA (ERYRI)
TAL-Y-LLIN PASS
TINTERN ABBEY
VALE OF RHEIDOL
VALLE CRUCIS ABBEY
ABERDOVEY (ABERDYFI)
Aberdyfi is a thriving little harbour resort set within the Snowdonia National Park, where the river Dyfi meets the blue waters of Cardigan Bay.
The wide sandy beach leads to grass-covered sand dunes, and, now here's a thing............the whole is separated from the car park and road, by a rail fence with gates advising you to keep them shut so as not to let the sheep out! It seems they graze sheep on the dunes in the off season!
ABERYSTWYTH MOUNTAIN ROAD
This amazing road starts just above the Elan Valley and winds its way through the mountains, through Devil's Bridge and on to the outskirts of Aberystwyth on the west coast. It's almost impossibly narrow in places. I had to take refuge in someone's front garden at one point when I met a huge milk tanker coming the other way.
That was at Cwmystwyth - just after you travel through the eerie, otherworldly landscape of the disused lead mine workings. The Romans mined lead here, but in the 17th. and 18th. centuries, the mining really came into its' own, when silver was also found.
The route continues up and down, left and right through the mountains and a beautiful forest. In the middle of the forest, miles from anywhere, they have built a stone arch which recreates the original archway entrance to the Hafod Estate. They have included a short stretch of tarmac to represent the original road passing under the arch, although the actual road now bypasses it, to the left of the picture below.
Well, this year it has been finished, and the area around it cleared and partially tarmacced to provide a small carpark and picnic area in one of the most delightful and quiet areas I've yet to come across.
BALA LAKE ( Llyn Tegid)
Beautiful Bala Lake, crossed by the River Dee, is the largest body of water in Wales, being 150ft. deep, four miles long and a mile wide.
The lake is known in Welsh as 'Llyn Tegid', meaning Lake of Serenity, and was formed by the action of glaciers.
At the edge by the visitor centre, it's very shallow to quite a distance, and loved as a paddling place by small children, ducks and jackdaws (it also has a decent sized free bike park)
BEDDGELERT
Beddgelert, the 'Grave of Gelert' is situated in Snowdonia, at the head of the Aberglaslyn Pass.
According to legend, the stone monument in the field marks the resting place of 'Gelert', the faithful hound of the medieval Welsh Prince Llewelyn the Great.
But - that is exactly what it is - a legend. It was invented by a former landlord of the Goat's Head Inn, in order to stimulate tourism to the area.
The story, as written on the tombstone reads:
"In the 13th century Llewelyn, prince of North Wales, had a palace at Beddgelert. One day he went hunting without Gelert, "The Faithful Hound", who was unaccountably absent.
On Llewelyn's return the truant, stained and smeared with blood, joyfully sprang to meet his master. The prince alarmed hastened to find his son, and saw the infant's cot empty, the bedclothes and floor covered with blood.
The frantic father plunged his sword into the hound's side, thinking it had killed his heir. The dog's dying yell was answered by a child's cry.
Llewelyn searched and discovered his boy unharmed, but near by lay the body of a mighty wolf which Gelert had slain.
The prince filled with remorse is said never to have smiled again. He buried Gelert here".
BLAENAU FFESTINIOG
The story, as written on the tombstone reads:
"In the 13th century Llewelyn, prince of North Wales, had a palace at Beddgelert. One day he went hunting without Gelert, "The Faithful Hound", who was unaccountably absent.
On Llewelyn's return the truant, stained and smeared with blood, joyfully sprang to meet his master. The prince alarmed hastened to find his son, and saw the infant's cot empty, the bedclothes and floor covered with blood.
The frantic father plunged his sword into the hound's side, thinking it had killed his heir. The dog's dying yell was answered by a child's cry.
Llewelyn searched and discovered his boy unharmed, but near by lay the body of a mighty wolf which Gelert had slain.
The prince filled with remorse is said never to have smiled again. He buried Gelert here".
BETWYS-Y-COED
The name apparently means 'the prayer-house in the woods'
Really the gateway to Snowdonia. Betwys, which lays on the main A5 road through North Wales to Holyhead, is loved for the Swallow Falls. Unfortunately, the last time I was there, we'd had a dry summer, so they were little less than impressive.
Blaenau is an old slate mining town, and can seem very drear and grey, especially on a wet day. The Steam Railway, one of the 'Great Little Trains Of Wales, is well worth a ride.
The Ffestiniog Railway is the oldest independent railway company in the World - being founded by an Act of Parliament in 1832.
It was originally built as a gravity line, to take the wagons full of slate from the quarries down to the estuary. The line was cleverly engineered, so that the heavy wagons would trundle down under their own weight - each with a brakeman on board to control the speed of descent - and then the empties would be pulled back up by horses. Occasionally they do demonstration runs of how this worked.
In 1863, steam locomotives were introduced, and the horses were spared anymore death-defying trips down in the back wagon of the gravity trains! This change also facilitated the introduction of passenger trains in 1865.
Over the last fifty years, the Ffestiniog Railway has become a leader in railway preservation and is now one of Wales’ top tourist attractions.
It is remarkable for its double-ended 'push-me pull-you' Double Fairlie locomotives. Normal engines were not designed to be used in reverse for long periods, and so a turntable or turning loop was required at every terminus. Also, the engine wasted power towing the heavy fuel tender, because the wheels weren't driven.
Robert Fairlie's design overcame these issues, by designing an engine that was two locomotives joined back to back, that carried all it's fuel on board, and didn't need a separate tender. It was driven by one set of controls in the central cab that enabled it to be driven in either direction.
Unfortunately, the only pictures I took were pre-digital and on a grey, wet day. I need to return soon and take some better ones.
Tanygrisiau station on a very wet day, with the brooding mountains behind
The first time we travelled on the Ffestiniog, the train was full of Welsh people. We got talking to a man sitting in our carriage, and said we expected it to be full of tourists, even though it was still outside the season. He explained that it was a Sunday, and at that time in Wales, pubs and off-licences weren't allowed to open on a Sunday, but the buffet on the train sold beer. So they all bought tickets and spent the day riding up and down on the train!
THE BRECON BEACONS (Bannau Brycheiniog)
One of Wales' National Parks (why they don't just make the whole of Wales one big national park, I don't know), the Brecons are a majestic, often lonely place. The Brecon to Merthyr road is a particular favourite of mine. It 'may' have something to do with a viewpoint called The Verandah, with a burger wagon that does probably the best bacon baps and burgers in the area. You always know where the foods good, if a food stop is full of lorries and or bikers. The park is now known by its' original Welsh name
BRECON MOUNTAIN RAILWAY
Another of the Great Little Trains Of Wales, the only one operating in the south, the BMR sits at the foot of the Beacons, not far from Merthyr Tyddfil. The rail runs alongside a reservoir, and there's plenty of opportunity to spot wildlife.
The name Builth, in Welsh Buallt or perhaps Buellt, is older than the town to which it now refers. Buallt/Buellt originally applied to the Cantref or Hundred, an area within the old Welsh administrative system. The Cantref of Buallt/Buellt was an area of land between the rivers Wye and Tywi and north of a line drawn roughly between Erwood and Llanwrtyd, covering an area of some 174 miles. It has long been thought the name of the Cantref, and later the town, came from the Welsh words 'Bu' and 'Allt', and could be translated as 'The Wild Ox of the Wooded Slope'.
The large 18th century bridge, that carries the main road from the town centre towards the Royal Welsh Showground and the roads north.
Bronze statue of a Black Welsh bull, reflecting Builth Wells importance as a central market for beef cattle in past times
At the main road junction in the town, a gable end bears this remarkable depiction of a scene from the Mabinogion - the legendary history of Wales.
BULL BAY
One of the pretty little coves along the shore of Anglesey. Quite honestly, ignore the centre of the island, and make your away around the coast. That's where the nicest places are.
This, for me, is probably the most beautiful of all the Welsh Castles.
The castle's majestic persona is no architectural accident: it was designed to echo the walls of Constantinople, the imperial power of Rome and the dream castle, 'the fairest that ever man saw', of Welsh myth and legend.
The castle's majestic persona is no architectural accident: it was designed to echo the walls of Constantinople, the imperial power of Rome and the dream castle, 'the fairest that ever man saw', of Welsh myth and legend.
Caernarfon is architecturally one of the most impressive of all of the castles in Wales. It's defensive capabilities were not as overt or as powerful as those of Edward I's other castles such as Harlech and Beaumaris (which indicate the pinnacle of castle building and defences in Britain), but Caernarfon was instead intended as a seat of power - and as a symbol of English dominance over the subdued Welsh.
Caernarfon is located at the southern end of the Menai Strait between north Wales and Anglesey, 8 miles south west of Bangor. During Edward I's invasions of Wales, this was strategically an excellent place to build a castle; Anglesey was referred to as the garden of Wales, providing agriculturally rich land close to the poorer land on north Wales. The Menai Strait also allowed speedy access between the north Welsh coast and the western coast, and was therefore important for Edward to control for supplying outposts such as Harlech and Aberystwyth.
As with all of the castles of Edward's Iron Ring, Caernarfon was built on the shoreline. Edward also built a town, destroying the original Welsh settlement beforehand.
The castle succeeded first a Roman fort, and then a Norman motte and bailey - built by Hugh of Avranches around 1090. This motte was incorporated into the Edwardian castle, but was destroyed around 1870 . The Welsh retook the original motte in 1115 and retained control until Edward's invasion and colonization in 1283. The site's previous history also demonstrates the strategic importance of the site.
Standing at the mouth of the Seiont river, the fortress (with its unique polygonal towers, intimidating battlements and colour banded masonry) dominates the walled town also founded by Edward I. Caernarfon's symbolic status was emphasized when Edward made sure that his son, the first English Prince of Wales, was born here in 1284. As an adult, Prince Edward (later Edward II) never returned to its walls, and by the mid 14th century it had become little more than a depot for the armament of the other north Wales castles.
Even so, it continued to be maintained and garrisoned, and successfully withstood sieges by the forces of Owain Glyndwr in 1403 and 1404. During the Civil War, Caernarfon finally surrendered to Parliamentary forces in 1646. Centuries of neglect were halted by repairs undertaken in the late 19th century and, in 1911, it was the scene of the Investiture of Prince Edward (later Edward VIII) as Prince of Wales.In 1969, the castle gained worldwide fame as the setting for the Investiture of Prince Charles as Prince of Wales.
CAERPHILLY CASTLE
Caernarfon is also home to the remains of the Segontium Roman fort from 78 AD. - proof that the Romans recognised the strategic value of this part of North Wales, a full 1200 years before Edward I built his castle here.
CAERPHILLY CASTLE
Caerphilly Castle is one of the great medieval castles of western Europe. Several factors give it this pre-eminence - its immense size, making it the largest in Britain after Windsor, its large-scale use of water for defence and the fact that it is the first truly concentric castle in Britain. Of the time of its building in the late 13th century, it was a revolutionary masterpiece of military planning.
One of Henry III's most powerful and ambitious barons, Gilbert de Clare, lord of Glamorgan, built this castle. His purpose was to secure the area and prevent lowland south Wales from falling into the hands of the Welsh leader Llywelyn the Last, who controlled most of mid and north Wales. De Clare built other castles on the northern fringes of his territory for the same purpose. He had seized the upland district of Senghenydd, in which Caerphilly lies, from the Welsh in 1266 to act as a buffer against Llywelyn's southward ambitions. Llywelyn realised the threat and tried but failed to prevent the castle from being built; it was begun on 11 April 1268, was attacked by Llywelyn in 1270, and was begun again in 1271. This time it was completed without hindrance. Its message was not lost on Llywelyn, who retreated northwards.
Located in the centre of Caerphilly town, its lakes and grounds, which are outside the castle walls, are free to wander round.
The south and north lakes around the castle formed an almost insuperable barrier to attackers. The dams themselves are a major achievement of medieval engineering. The southern, earliest one is a massive earth platform revetted in stone and strengthened on its lower side by eight great buttresses. To the right of the entrance to the castle is the northern dam, a narrower platform with a high outer wall with three great towers, which are now unfortunately suffering from subsidence on the marshy ground. At its end is a strong postern gate and drawbridge. Outside the dam is a moat fed by sluices in the southern dam
The great east gatehouse (below) dominates the castle. This is the inner facade. Only the tracery in the top windows have needed restoration. The rest is all original and unrestored.
The picture below shows a corner tower, and to the right, the replica section of timber fighting platform, built over the north inner curtain wall. This tower was restored in 1938
A better look at the replica timber fighting platform, designed to protect the archers from arrows raining down on them, whilst they in turn, shot at the opposition
One of the castle's best known features, is the south-east tower of the inner ward (above), which leans at an alarming angle. Often jokingly referred to as 'one of the ruins that Cromwell knocked about a bit' (old music-hall song), the 10 degree lean is probably due to ground subsidence, which other parts of the castle are also suffering from
The castle’s active history was an extremely short one. By 1283 Edward I had removed the threat of Welsh independence and the need for Caerphilly had gone. Minor Welsh attacks in 1294-5 and 1316 failed to make any impact. The last action that Caerphilly saw was in the war between Edward II and his queen, Isabella. Intent on destroying the power of her husband and his favourite Hugh le Despenser, Isabella besieged the castle from December 1326 to March 1327. But by this time Edward had fled and Hugh had been hanged. Thereafter the castle declined and fell into ruin. In the late 16th century Thomas Lewis of The Van, just outside Caerphilly, was granted permission to use its stone to build his new house, thus accelerating its dilapidation. In the Civil War it was unusable and an earthwork redoubt was built instead to the north-west, the remains of which are still visible in the trees beyond the north lake. By the 18th century the lakes were dry and houses had been built against the foot of the south dam. That the castle rose again from its sorry state is due to the visionary clearance and restoration work undertaken by the Bute family and the imaginative reflooding of the lakes by the state in the 1950s.
CAPEL CURIG
Mount Snowdon (Yr Wyddfa), shrouded in cloud
in the above shot, you can just see the road that leads to the Llanberis Pass
CHEPSTOW
Chepstow is in Monmouthshire, just where the old Severn Bridge crosses. It's a lovely little town, crowned by the magnificent castle. Access to the castle is right by the main car park.
The castle sits in a big loop of the river Wye, and it's easy to see how the little town grew organically at the foot of the massive walls.
Chepstow is a Norman castle perched high above the banks of the river Wye. Construction began at Chepstow in 1067, less than a year after William the Conqueror was crowned King of England. While Edward had his master castle builder in the person of James of St. George, the Conqueror, some 200 years earlier, had his equal in the person of his loyal Norman lord William FitzOsbern. Chepstow Castle became the key launching point for expeditions into Wales, expeditions that eventually subdued the rebellious population.
Chepstow begun in 1067, is the oldest surviving stone castle in Britain. Because of this, the site has a special significance to British history. At other castles built during the Conqueror's reign, original Norman structures have long since disappeared, but at Chepstow it's still possible to see and touch the remains of FitzOsbern's first great building project in Wales.
Chepstow begun in 1067, is the oldest surviving stone castle in Britain. Because of this, the site has a special significance to British history. At other castles built during the Conqueror's reign, original Norman structures have long since disappeared, but at Chepstow it's still possible to see and touch the remains of FitzOsbern's first great building project in Wales.
The Normans weren't the first to recognize the strategic position of Chepstow. The arch above the main doorway to the hall is made from brick brought from a Roman fort that once stood nearby. The hall was always the heart of the castle, and originally stood alone. Over the years, the castle was enlarged by a series of builders. Today, the castle takes the shape of a long rectangle perched high above the river Wye.
The Great Hall and dramatic cliff-side at Chepstow are the castle's two most interesting features. Because Chepstow was built in stages along the river Wye, the castle is constructed in a long, terraced fashion as opposed to a concentric layout. This unique construction is another reason the castle is so memorable.
Chepstow's strategic position allowed defenders to supply the castle via the river during times of battle and siege, while defending it against attack.
The Great Hall and dramatic cliff-side at Chepstow are the castle's two most interesting features. Because Chepstow was built in stages along the river Wye, the castle is constructed in a long, terraced fashion as opposed to a concentric layout. This unique construction is another reason the castle is so memorable.
Chepstow's strategic position allowed defenders to supply the castle via the river during times of battle and siege, while defending it against attack.
(below) this was the first view I had of the castle, from the motorcycle parking space in the public car park. This is Marten's Tower from outside the castle.
(below) Marten's Tower from inside the walls. The tower was where Henry Marten was imprisoned for signing the death warrant for Charles I. The square-headed windows are characteristic of the Tudor re-modelling of the castle.
CHIRK (Y WAUN)
The border town of Chirk stands on the escarpment above the point at which the rivers Ceiriog and Dee meet. The name Chirk is thought to be an English corruption of the name Church, however it's Welsh name 'Y Waun' means 'the moor'
The Llangollen canal is perhaps Britain's most popular cruising canal and Chirk Marina is well situated between Thomas Telford's two magnificent aqueducts at Chirk and at Pontcysyllte. It is possible to walk across both aqueducts if you have a head for heights. I did indeed, walk across the Chirk Aquaeduct
The Claerwen dam is actually a part of the Elan Valley complex (see below), although it lays off to one side, at the end of its' own long valley. The largest and most impressive of the four completed Elan Valley Dams, Claerwen dam holds back 48,300 megalitres of water. This dam was started in 1946 and was mostly built by Italian stonemasons as British workers were still busy rebuilding after the Second World War.
The Claerwen dam was built with later construction techniques than the other dams, and therefore has a concrete inner core. It was faced with stone in keeping with the other dams in the Elan Valley.
CONWY CASTLE
Built by Edward I as he established his power over the Welsh, it became his campaign headquarters, and in 1284, the Statute of Rhuddlan placed the principality under English rule and law.
However, The unique thing about Conwy, is not so much the castle, although that is impressive to say the least, as the three parallel bridges under its walls. The middle bridge, the suspension one, is Thomas Telford's iconic bridge linking Conwy to Llandudno. The bridge was built in 1826, and at the time it was one of the few suspension bridges in the world to carry road traffic. It replaced a long-established ferry across the river.
The Telford bridge runs parallel to a later wrought-iron railroad bridge built by Robert Stephenson. The bridge is exceedingly narrow, measuring only 2.5 metres across. The cables supporting the south end of the bridge are anchored into the rock on which the castle stands, and some parts of the castle had to be demolished to allow the cables to be anchored. The bridge is no longer open to road traffic, so visitors on foot have it all to themselves
Conwy along with Harlech is probably the most impressive of all the Welsh castles. Both were designed by Edward I's master castle builder James of St. George, and while Harlech has a more storied past, Conwy's eight massive towers and high curtain wall are more impressive than those at Harlech.
Construction of Conwy began in 1283. The castle was an important part of King Edward I's plan of surrounding Wales in "an iron ring of castles" to subdue the rebellious population. The highly defensible wall Edward built around the town was intended to protect the English colony planted at Conwy. The native Welsh population were violently opposed to English occupation of their homeland.
It was during his second campaign in Wales that King Edward gained control of the Conwy valley in March 1283. He began work on the new fortress almost immediately, the natural advantages of the site being so far superior to those of the older castle at Deganwy on the opposite side of the estuary. Moreover, plans were laid for an accompanying garrison town, itself to be defended by a complete circuit of walls and towers. Castle and town walls were all built in a frenzied period of activity between 1283-87, a tremendous achievement in which up to 1,500 craftsmen and labourers were involved during peak periods.
King Edward was actually besieged at Conwy during the rebellion of Madog ap Llywelyn in 1295. Though food ran low, the walls stood firm. Some alterations were carried out under Edward, the Black Prince in the 14th century. In 1403 the castle fell by trickery to the forces of Owain Glyndwr, was held by his men and later ransomed back to the English for some much-needed funds.) Conwy saw some action in the Civil War, but afterwards was left to the elements.
CORRIS
Corris is a tiny village built into a steep hillside just north of Machynlleth, on the road to Dolgellau via Cross Foxes The best thing about Corris is the Craft Centre. It's a honeycomb of little artisan workshops, where you can watch the people at work, and buy their products. There's a lovely café and decent loos.
One of the things you can buy here are smoking dragons! These little fellows smoke incense, and, if you follow your nose, you will find this one:
CORS DYFI
Cors Dyfi is 3.5 miles south west of Machynlleth on the A487 Abersytwyth road.
Cors Dyfi (Dyfi bog) is a wonderful little nature reserve that is teaming with wildlife for most of the year. This is where the Dyfi Osprey Project is situated.
Once estuary, reclaimed grazing, then conifer plantation and finally wildlife-rich wetland, the land at Cors Dyfi has seen many changes over the last few hundred years. Today the reserve is a healthy mixture of bog, swamp, wet woodland and scrub supporting a plethora of animals and plants, including the magnificent Osprey, which bred on the reserve for the first time in 2011. If you're lucky, you may also spot an otter, beaver or dormouse!
You really can't miss the location of the mobile home park next door:
Osprey (picture from the Dyfi Osprey Project )
CRICCIETH
Apparently, Criccieth's castle was built at the beginning of the 13th century, a rather late date for initiating a castle at a particular site in Wales. The earliest mention of a stronghold on the craggy outcrop is to be found in the Welsh chronicles, the Brut y Tywysogyon, in the year 1239, when Gruffydd ap Llywelyn (son of Llywelyn ap Iorwerth, or "the Great") was imprisoned in the castle by his half-brother, Dafydd. Most likely, Llywelyn the Great began the stone fortress just a few years before his sons' quarrel.
The second building phase at Criccieth Castle was undertaken by Llywelyn's grandson, Llywelyn ap Gruffydd (also known as "the Last") probably in the 1260's. The third building period at Criccieth took place from about 1283 to 1292. Llywelyn the Last lost control of the castle early in 1283, a victim of King Edward I's second Welsh campaign. Edward carried out extensive renovation of the fortress, spending some L500 (a considerable sum in those days)
Sadly, Criccieth Castle had a brief lifespan, suffering from repeated assaults by the Welsh. Just two years after its completion in 1292, the English stronghold withstood its first siege, from Welsh rebels led by Madog ap Llywelyn. The castle's strategic seaside placement played a key role in the garrison's endurance, allowing access by ships from Ireland which carried vital supplies (including 6000 herrings, 550 large salt fish, 30 quarters of wheat, 27 quarters of beans, 20 pounds of twine for the crossbows, 50 stockings and 45 pairs of shoes, as well as 24 salted pigs and 18 cheeses; references: Robinson, 1989 and Thomas, 1982). The garrison held out for several months, certainly not wanting for sustenance! By the late 1340's the English appointed Sir Hywel ap Gruffydd (also known as Howel of the Battleaxe, for his decisive actions in the service of Edward, the Black Prince, on the field of Crecy) as constable of their castle in Criccieth. This was a great honor for the Welshman, who died in 1381, and for a time quieted the Welsh rebellion.
Twenty three years later, Criccieth Castle was abruptly brought down, never again to be used as a stronghold, when Owain Glyndwr led the last major Welsh rebellion against the English. This time replenishment from the sea was useless, for Glyndwr had the active support of the French navy, which stationed itself in the Irish Sea and prevented the approach of Irish ships. The garrison at Criccieth had no alternative but to surrender. Glyndwr's men tore down the stone walls and burned the castle. Today, remnants of the devastation may be spotted, not only the crumbled towers and curtain wall, but the fire-scarred rock as well.
J.M.W. Turner painted the castle several times. This is one of the most dramatic, I think
THE ELAN VALLEY
And senseless were my heart, could I look back
Upon the varied way my feet have trod,
Without a silent prayer that health and joy,
And love and happiness, may long abide
In the romantic vale where Ellen winds.
Upon the varied way my feet have trod,
Without a silent prayer that health and joy,
And love and happiness, may long abide
In the romantic vale where Ellen winds.
from 'Coombe-Ellen' (Cwm Elan), a poem written by William Lisle Bowles (1798)
Where to start? The Elan Valley is incredible. It's just outside Rhayader, in Mid-Wales, and it's a series of reservoirs and dams built to provide water to Birmingham. There are 5 dams, each one different and beautiful in its own way. There is a narrow road that runs around the entire complex, and just to ride around it in silence is a joy.
The whole is 180 square kilometres, and although owned by Welsh Water, is mostly cared for by the Elan Valley Trust. Although both organisations encourage public access for recreation and environmental education, it is a sensitive area, and there are certain restrictions that should be observed, both for safety, and for protection of the wildlife.
Caban Coch dam, next to the visitor centre. The bottom of this dam is too low to enable water to be gravity fed to Birmingham, therefore the water is extracted at the Foel Tower at Garreg Ddu
The visitor centre has a sculpture celebrating Percy Bysshe Shelley, who used to stay in houses (Nantgwyllt and Elan House) in 1811/1812, that have been drowned beneath the waters of one of the reservoirs. The sculpture is the work of Christopher Kelly, and was installed in 1986.
You can just make out, across the bridge, the little Nantgwyllt Church. The Corporation built this as a replacement for the original, which was submerged by the rising waters.
Craig Goch dam - you can drive cross this one, to a small car park at the start of some lovely walking trails
There is also the Dol y Mynach dam, which was never completed, and the remains of the Nant y Gro dam - a small dam originally built to supply water to the workers' village, and subsequently used by Barnes Wallace to test his early theory of a bouncing bomb
FLINTFlint is a small town on the North Coast at the mouth of the Dee Estuary, less than 20 miles from Chester. It's fairly unremarkable, except for the castle ruins, which stand on the edge of marshy land, now a nature reserve. As with all CADW properties that are very ruined, it's free to wander around, with no facilities.
It is a masterful work of architectural genius that gives tribute to Edward I's master mason, James of St. George, and deserves the attention given to its greater sisters - Caernarfon, Conwy, Harlech, and Beaumaris - the "Big Four" in the northwest.
The Welsh were never ones to settle for dominance by their English neighbors. The history of Wales after the Norman Conquest was marked with a series of rebellions against their oppressive overlords. During the 13th century, two particularly notable princes of Wales, Llywelyn ab Iorwerth (the Great) and Llwyelyn ap Gruffydd (the Last), attempted to regain control of their homeland from the English kings, Henry III and his son, Edward I. Despite being recognized by King Henry in the late 1260's with the title of "Prince of Wales", Llywelyn the Last was a restless and cautious man. Upon Edward's accession in 1272, Llywelyn intentionally defied courtly protocol and refused to swear allegiance to the new king at any time during the following four years. Compromise with the Welshman was futile. By 1277 King Edward had reached the limits of his patience, and, in order to quell the Welsh threat, initiated what was perhaps the greatest period of castle-building in Britain.
Edward I chose the site with great care, ensuring access by sea - for reinforcements and supplies - as well as by land. A great number of labourers were recruited from throughout England to work on the structure, reaching some 2,300. Not only was work carried out on the new castle, but an entirely new town, or bastide, was also erected. Such fortified towns served their king well. They were useful administrative centres from which the king would receive revenue and retain control over the citizenry of the region. The original medieval street plan is still clearly visible at Flint.
Despite Edward's initial intent, Flint Castle was not substantially completed until 1284, the year in which the town received its royal charter. Ironically, the mighty fortress did little to deter another Welsh revolt, and in 1282 the castle was besieged by Dafydd ap Gruffydd, brother of Llywelyn the Last who immediately joined the foray. The Welsh uprising provoked a second great castle-building effort by King Edward I, and by the end of the year the Welsh were effectively subdued, Llywelyn the Last killed in December at Cilmeri near Builth Wells, and Dafydd taken prisoner the following June. Another attempt to seize the castle was made in 1294, when the English constable deliberately burned the fortress and its bastide to prevent capture by the Welsh. Extensive repairs were then made to restore the castle to its prior condition. By 1301, ownership had been granted to Edward, Prince of Wales.
After this point, life at Flint Castle was relatively quiet, with a couple of notable exceptions. As Shakespeare recorded in his play, "Richard II", in 1399 King Richard stopped briefly at the castle during his conflict with Henry Bolingbroke, duke of Lancaster and the future King Henry IV. It was at Flint that Richard attended chapel and then climbed the donjon's walls to view the arrival of Bolingbroke. Here Richard agreed to abdicate in favor of his opponent. One story has it that even Richard's dog recognized Bolingbroke's authority!
The last significant action seen at Flint Castle was during the English Civil War, in the 1640's. Initially garrisoned for the Royalists under the command of Sir Roger Mostyn, the fortress was used as base for regrouping and besieging the powerful Royalist stronghold at Chester. Flint Castle was itself besieged for three months, before surrendering to the Parliamentarians, led by General Mytton who slighted the structure in 1647. Like other castles, Flint was effectively made useless by Cromwell's decree of devastation.
In the 18th century the outer bailey was taken over by the county jail, which stood on the site until the 1960's.
What can I say about the magnificent spectacle that is Harlech Castle. It can be seen for miles, and the view from the castle is equally magnificent, looking out as it does, over both the sea and land towards the mountains of Snowdonia. The name Harlech has been translated as 'high rock', a name which is oh so apt.
Harlech is inseparably linked in Welsh myth with the tragic heroine of Branwen, the daughter of Llyr, of the Mabinogion. Even after seven centuries, it remains a testament to a military architect of genius, Master James of St. George.
Harlech was begun during King Edward I's second campaign in north Wales. Following the fall of the Welsh stronghold of Castell y Bere, King Edward's forces arrived at Harlech in April, 1283, and building work began almost immediately. Over the next six years an army of masons, quarriers, laborers and other craftsmen were busily engaged in construction. In 1286, with the work at its height, nearly 950 men were employed under the superintendence of Master James.
The Welsh weren't about to roll over though. At the start of the 15th. century, Owain Glyndwr became the leader of a renewed fight against the hated English overlords, and in 1404, Harlech fell to Glyndwr.
It is an imposing fortress, standing high on a craggy outcrop above the flat land of the shoreline, and with the mountains of Snowdonia in the distance. The sea, at the time it was built, would have been much closer to the hill that the castle is on. The castle's remarkable feature is the defended "Way from the sea," a gated and fortified stairway plunging almost 200 ft down to the foot of the castle rock. Once, this gave access to supplies from the sea, but the tide level has since receded, leaving Harlech somewhat isolated upon its rock. During Madog ap Llywelyn's uprising of 1294-95, this maritime lifeline proved the saviour of the garrison, which was supplied and victualled by ships from Ireland.
In 1409. Harlech fell to the English again, this time led by Henry of Monmouth, styled as the Prince of Wales, and the future King Henry V. The fate of an independent Wales was now sealed.
(below) the gatehouse, the main entrance from the very convenient car park
HAY-ON-WYE
That was not the end of the action at Harlech In 1468, it fell to the Yorkist Edward IV during the Wars of the Roses, following a 7 year siege. And during the English Civil War, on 15th. March 1647, it was surrendered by the Royalists to Parliamentary forces. It was the last stronghold to fly the flag for Charles I. Despite all this history, it is still a magnificent edifice.
(below) the inner facade of the gatehouse
The picture below, is the toilet, or garde-robe' !
This is the 'Two Kings' statue that stands just outside Harlech Castle.
The Mabinogion story of Branwen is a lament over the folly and carnage of war. Branwen, sister of Bendigeidfran, the King of Britain, departed from the court at Harlech to marry the King of Ireland. Their son, the boy King Gwern, was killed in the war which followed.
In the sculpture, the figure of Bendigeidfran, bearing the body of his nephew Gwern, symbolises the sorrowful burden that love can be.
In the sculpture, the figure of Bendigeidfran, bearing the body of his nephew Gwern, symbolises the sorrowful burden that love can be.
A little advice - if you intend to visit the castle, don't attempt to walk up the Twtil from the flat plain below. We struggled to get a motorcycle up it, let alone walk. Go past the castle and take the road into the town. There's a car park right next to the castle entrance, and this will leave you with plenty of energy left to explore!
A small market town in Powys, Hay is most famous for its annual book fair. Indeed, the town is full of book shops. There's also a very good chocolate shop there............
The motte rising 3m to a summit 20m across near the parish church SW of the town is probably the site of the 'castello de haia' which is mentioned in 1121. It was probably built by William Revel, one of Bernard de Newmarch's knights.
Later in the 12th century a more commanding site to the NE was utilised for a large oval ringwork 85m by 70m. Matilda de Braose is said to have built the stone keep in c1200, but it is perhaps more likely that she added the gateway arch to a tower built in the 1180s. She died of starvation at the command of King John, who burnt the castle and town of Hay in 1216 while attempting to suppress the rebellion of Giles and Reginald de Braose.
They were burnt again by Llywelyn Fawr in 1231 and had to be rebuilt by Henry III. In 1232 and 1237 he granted the townsfolk of Hay the right to collect a special toll to pay for walling in the town with stone. The castle was captured by Prince Edward in 1264 and by Simon de Montfort's forces in 1265.
Both town and castle suffered damage by Owain Glyndwr's forces in 1400, but the castle was listed as defensible against the Welsh in 1403. The castle had passed to the Earls of Stafford, later Dukes of Buckingham, and is said to have suffered further damage during the conflicts of the 1460s. The last Duke, executed by Henry VIII in 1521, remodelled the keep. Whatever apartments then adjoined it were swept away in the 1660s when James Boyle of Hereford built a new mansion.
Most of the curtain wall was either demolished during the Civil War or later, to improve the views from the mansion. In the early 19th century, the house was occupied by the Wellington family who purchased it from Glyn heiresses. The house was restored c1910 but the eastern part was gutted by fire in 1939. The western part was gutted by a second fire in 1979, but has been restored. It and various outbuildings are now used for second-hand bookselling.
Since taking these pictures, great strides have been made towards conservation and reconstruction of part of the castle. It is now open to the public for the first time in its' long history
Quite a change eh?
The town walls enclose a D-shaped area with the straight side facing the Wye. The castle lay on the south side with the West Gate nearby. To the east was the Black Lion Gate, and to the north the Water Gate, all removed in the late 18th century. The last sections of wall on the west were removed for the railway in the 1860s.
KNUCKLAS
Knucklas is a tiny little village, just outside Knighton, and virtually just over the border into Wales. There's nothing there, except for a marvellous Victorian viaduct, and an excellent pub, which is where I stayed. Their web-site is here: http://www.castleinn.org.uk/
and this is the viaduct:
LAKE VYRNWY
Another of the reservoirs which abound in the Welsh mountains, Vyrnwy, like the Elan Valley lakes, has a road right around it. You can drive across the dam and head out around the lake, enjoying the peace, solitude, and beautiful scenery.
The lake's most famous landmark is the Gothic-style Straining Tower, which removes debris before the water sets out on its 75 mile journey to Liverpool. It was built by Liverpool Corporation in the 1880s
LLANBERIS
Right in the heart of Snowdonia, Llanberis is where you can take a train to the top of Mount Snowdon, the highest peak in Wales. Be warned though, by 10am, rides for the day on the rack and pinion railway are usually fully-booked for the rest of the day.
The narrow gauge rack and pinion railway covers over 4 miles to climb to the top station at 3,493 feet. The summit of the mountain is another 68 ft. higher, at 3,560 feet. Originally 7 stations were built, but now there is just one halfway up and the summit station, as well, of course, as the starting station in Llanberis. The first train reached the summit in 1896.
Llanberis is also famed for the Llanberis Pass. Now that's a strange place. If there's no traffic about, it's as silent as the grave!
The pass climbs to nearly 1200 feet before descending down to Llyns Peris and Padarn. Although narrow in places, there are several large lay-bys where you can pull up and properly look at the craggy cliffs.
The crags are home to the tiny, and incredibly rare Snowdon lily. It grows in quite inaccessible places, and to protect it, nobody will show you where to find it - and I don't blame them! So you will just have to put up with a photograph of it.
LLANBRYNMAIR
OK, so it's not much of a place, but there's a nice café and children's play area in the centre of the village, which holds the only Welsh dragon in captivity ;)
feed him some money (for charity) and watch the fire start in his belly, travel up his neck, and erupt out of his mouth!
LLANFAIR PG
or Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch, to give it its correct name. Comes to something when the name of a village is longer than the name of the island it sits on (Anglesey). Wonder just how many people have had their photos taken standing by the sign at the railway station?
LLANGOLLEN
Llangollen is a truly amazing town, encapsulating the best North Wales has to offer in a small area. With more sun than Cornwall and less rain than the Lake District.
There are mountains, white water rivers, including the spectacular River Dee, canals with horse-drawn boats, the Llangollen Steam Railway with steam and diesel trains that chug along the Dee Valley, the Horseshoe Pass, the Horseshoe Falls and all in easy reach of Chester and Wrexham.
The town itself has a plethora of little shops and cafes, all in a small space that is easy to walk around.
The stone building peeping out from behind the white one in the picture below, is a 13th. century water mill, where fabrics are still produced. The picture was taken from the 700 year old stone bridge with four arches.
You get a better view of the mill from the railway
Each July, the town plays host to the International Musical Eisteddfod, and the ever-busy little town is filled with sound and colour.
LLANSTUMDWY
A tiny village, lying on the Llyn peninsula, between Criccieth and Pwllheli, Llanstumdwy has the distinction of being the birth place, and burial place of David Lloyd George. He was Prime Minister of the United Kingdom and led a Wartime Coalition Government between 1916 and 1922 and was the Leader of the Liberal Party from 1926 to 1931.
Visit the David Lloyd George museum in the village, then walk through the grounds out into the lane at the back, and the monument is opposite you. His grave on the banks of the Afon Dwyfor, with its huge boulder, was designed by Sir Clough Williams-Ellis, the founder and designer of Portmeirion.
LLYN MWYNGIL
On a spur of the moment, I decided to turn off the Corris road onto a little B road towards Tywn. I'd never been through there before, and I'm so glad I did. It's a beautiful road, with amazing scenery, and the high point is Llyn Mwyngil
LLYN PADARN
An old slate mining complex, now a slate mining museum, lies across the road, on the other side of Llyn Padarn, and it has it's own little train, so if you can't go on the mountain railway, there's always this one.
A stormy day at the lake, with Dolbadarn Castle in the distance. The castle was built mid-13th. century, to protect the narrow Llanberis Pass. It sits on a rocky outcrop at the foot of the pass, on a narrow spur of land which separates Llyn Padarn and Llyn Peris. The remaining tower stands to a height of several stories, but the remaining walls are reduced to foundation-level rubble.
There is no firm evidence as to who built it, but the most likely person is Llewellyn The Great, Prince of Gwynedd, who died in 1240. Snowdonia was the heart of his domain, and the location and time fits the political climate during his reign.
Because I don't have any decent photos of Dolbadarn at this time, I won't go any deeper into its' history and that of the Welsh Princes. You really need to see it up closer to understand more.
However, here's a view of it as painted by J.M.W. Turner, that really encapsulates how that one remaining tower is representative of an important brooding whole.
You can just make out the little Llyn Padarn train chugging its way along the opposite shore of the lake.
MACHYNLLETH
This busy little town lies at the junction of three major routes in Mid-Wales. In fact, the three roads meet at a clock tower in the centre of the town. The town itself is full of picturesque old buildings, including the one in Maengwyn Street, that in 1404 was the parliament building for Owain Glyndwr.
I was misinformed on this building. Somebody told me it was the 'Royal House', and the 1628 date puts it in the right period (Charles I) for that. However, the Royal House is elsewhere in town, and this used to be the town court house
MINLLYN (DINAS MAWDDWY)
I found this by accident, when I pulled off the main A470 for a short break. I just looked over the wall, and there it was!
This double arched Packhorse Bridge, built in the early 17th. century, spans the river, and leads to Meirion Mill craft centre. It was built to create a shorter route for packhorses to cross the River Dyfi on there way to Meirion Mill.
Pont Minllyn’s construction was paid for by Dr John Davies, rector of Mallwyd, one of the most prominent Welsh scholars of the era. He is believed to have had a hand in translations of the Bible and the Common Book of Prayer, as well as publishing his own book of Welsh grammar.
It was later replaced with a wider bridge (from which these pictures were taken) capable of carrying horse drawn carts.
The newer bridge, in turn, has been closed to all but pedestrians, and vehicle access is further along the A470, after that has crossed the river.
MONMOUTH
Monnow Bridge is the sole remaining mediaeval fortified river bridge in Britain where the gate tower stands actually on the bridge.
The present stone bridge was erected late in the 1200s. During 1988-1990 the Monmouth Flood Alleviation Scheme was effected in order to protect Monmouth from occasional flooding by the Monnow River. Before works to strengthen the foundations of Monnow Bridge, boreholes and excavations were undertaken which revealed remains of the previous wooden bridge directly under the present stone one. These remnants were parts of oak trestles with sole plates supporting vertical timbers and bracing. Dendrochronological analysis suggested that the timbers had been felled between AD 1123 and 1169, giving a construction date of up to c.1180. The bridge stabilization plans were modified slightly to preserve the wooden remains in situ.
The gatehouse atop Monnow Bridge, Monnow Gate, was not an original feature of the bridge. It formed part of new town defences begun at the beginning of the 14th century. Henry of Lancaster, the King's nephew, petitioned Edward I to issue a murage grant in favour of Monmouth. The king assented. It is following this 1297 grant that the Monmouth authorities were able to gather the wherewithal to build the mediaeval town walls and gates. Evidently the project at Monmouth was incomplete by 1315, or repairs were needed, since the authority of 1297 was renewed on 1 June 1315.
The Monnow Bridge and gate of circa 1300 were arguably very different from the present building. In those days the bridge was considerably narrower, and pedestrians and vehicles passed through the single arched passage of a tower probably whitewashed all over. At first Monnow Gate was without the three machicolation arches (shown at right) that today form such a prominent part of its facade. A portcullis hung in front of the main doors, whilst a wall-walk above was surrounded by a castellated parapet.
Other than their defensive uses, Monnow Gate and the other town gates were used regularly over more than five hundred years as the sites of toll collections. Tolls were authorized in the patent rolls of 1297 and 1315, and, in subsequent Monmouth charters, tolls were allowed for various specific purposes.
Few accounts survive of the gate's military use. Monnow Bridge receives a brief mention in a letter dated 4 February 1645 regarding a Royalist attempt to recover Monmouth. Four hundred of the Royalist foot-soldiers arrived from Raglan. The force 'gained the Bridge having killed the Centry thereupon, by which meanes they possessed themselves of the loopeholes, yet nevertheless Colonell Kirle drew up his forty men to the Bridge and having beaten the Enemy from it he flanked it on either side in the meane while the Enemies have got over the water, and became masters of our outworkes, and advanced into Monnow streete...'
Whether or not the war had any effect upon Monnow Gate, by the turn of the 18th century it was in need of maintenance and in 1705 Monmouth's Common Council 'ordered that the present chamblains of ye said Town do forth with cause Monnow Gate and the Gates thereof to be repaired and fitted up'.
It is at this time that the Monnow Gate made a great leap towards the appearance of today. Rebuilding of the battlements as solid walls and raising the roof allowed the gate to be used as a house. A 1705 contract required the lessees to convert the gate to a house, but, beyond this remodelling of the tower itself, a two-floored extension was constructed which abutted the gate at its eastern corner. This lean-to extension, timber framed, with lath and plaster infill, projected out over the river, held aloft by a wooden beam and a stone pillar. Although the gate had been converted to a dwelling, some part of it, or the adjoining lean-to extension, must have been earmarked for use when required as a lock-up or guardroom. In 1768 James Powell Naylor took up a lease of the corporation house adjoining Monnow Gate as a dwelling for 10s. a year. However, the conditions required that he vacate the building whenever it was required as a militia guardroom.
The lean-to building was demolished in 1815. Since 1845 the structure has remained essentially unchanged.
A brass plaque attached to the front of Monnow Gate, along with the influence of the Somersets at Raglan, has led many to the erroneous conclusion that the Dukes of Beaufort had some ancient claim on the monument. However, Monnow Gate was directly associated with that family only from 1830 until 1900. In 1830 the duke accepted Monnow Gate in exchange for property which the corporation wanted at the Beaufort Arms yard. At the turn of this century, as some of the Beaufort estates were being sold, His Grace decided to present the gate to the County Council as they already owned the bridge.
NEW QUAY
New Quay, in Ceredigion, not only sounds like its' Cornish counterpart, it's very like a Cornish village itself. You get to it by a long downhill road, which opens out onto a seafront overlooking Cardigan Bay, with a quaint harbour and sandy beach. It's a marvellous place to see dolphins and porpoises.
The harbour was once the home of an important herring fishing fleet, as well as a notorious smuggler's haunt, with a lucrative trade in contraband salt. And, for a while, it was the home of Dylan Thomas, who lived there for a while to escape the war and to write in peace.
PENRHYN
This enormous 19th-century neo-Norman castle, built between 1820 to 1840, sits between Snowdonia and the Menai Strait. It is crammed with fascinating items, such as a one-ton slate bed made for Queen Victoria, elaborate carvings, plasterwork and mock-Norman furniture, in addition it has an outstanding collection of paintings. The restored kitchens are a delight and the stable block houses a fascinating industrial railway museum, a model railway museum and a superb dolls' museum.
Originally owned by the Pennant family, the castle was built on wealth derived from slavery by a staunch anti-abolitionist. Richard Pennant's fortune may have funded roads, railways, schools, workers' houses, churches and farms, but the Pennant family also dominated the welsh slate industry for almost 150 years, and they were responsible for the longest industrial dispute in British history at Penrhyn Quarry
On the 22nd November 1900, 2,800 men at the Penrhyn slate quarry in Bethesda, Snowdonia, began a three-year-long strike.
The walk-out was the result of the quarry owner Lord Penrhyn, and its manager, Emilieus Young, trying to break the influence of the North Wales Quarrymen’s Union at the site. In April 1900, the management told the quarrymen that trade union contributions would no longer be collected. The announcement led to action by the workers resulting in the arrest of several of them. It was unusual at that time for the police to get involved in industrial action, and many condemned the Chief Constable of the County (and his mounted police, pictured) for his action
Soon after the arrests, the quarrymen were given an ultimatum: “Go on working or leave the quarry quietly.” They left.
In June 1901, about six months after the strike began, the management sent invitations to all those who’d been ‘approved’ to return to employment. Of the 2,800 who’d walked out, around 400 took up the offer, receiving a sovereign and the promise of a 5% pay rise.
The remaining strikers were furious. The names of those who had broken the strike were published in local newspapers. Around the same time a poster started appearing in people’s windows. The card reads “Nid oes Bradwr yn y ty hwn”, which translates as “there is no traitor in this house”. This simple sign divided the community in two: strikers and traitors.
During those three years, life was tough in Bethesda. ‘Traitors’ were ostracised; strikers became increasingly impoverished, with many men leaving their families to find work further south.
However, the strike caught the imagination of the nation and – as a result – received huge support from right across Britain. Collections came in many shapes and sizes, and were sent to Bethesda to show solidarity. This included, the gift of a 2½ tonne Christmas pudding from a company in Ashton-under-Lyne. Meanwhile, three Welsh choirs went on tour to raise awareness and funds for those back home.
The strike finally ended in 1903 with the quarrymen who’d not left the area forced back to work on Lord Penrhyn’s terms.
PONT KEMYS
Pont Kemys, or Chain Bridge in English, isn't anywhere in particular. It crosses the River Usk only eight miles from Abergavenny and four miles from the town of Usk. But I like it, so there!
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PONTCYSYLLTE AQUEDUCT
1795 was an interesting year. The French Revolution was still raging; Beethoven made his debut as a pianist, the British captured Capetown and two of the greatest engineers who ever lived embarked on bridging a 1,007ft gap across the Dee Valley, to carry the Shropshire Union canal.
Canals were the arteries of the Industrial Revolution throughout England and Wales and the race was on to connect the then Ellesmere Canal to the new pumping station on the River Dee at Llangollen, as well as Ellesmere Port itself on the Mersey Estuary.
Luckily, the engineering team of Thomas Telford and William Jessop were the most experienced canal and bridge builders of their time. Telford quickly put forward the idea of building a cast iron trough, similar in design to an earlier bridge of his in Longdon-on-Tern near Shrewsbury, placed on hollow stone pillars the width of the valley.
Despite much scepticism, Telford had his way. He built 19 supporting pillars, some up to 116ft (35m) high connected by 53ft wide iron arches. The mortar used in their construction was a mix of lime, water and ox blood. Nobody has yet worked out how many oxen this would have taken!!
The cast iron troughs were cast locally and dovetailed into each other. They were caulked by a mixture of pure Welsh linen and boiled sugar before being sealed over by lead.
The aqueduct was officially opened a month after the Battle of Trafalgar on the 26th November 1805 and cost the then considerable sum of £47,000. Ironically, this resulted in the project running out of money and the canal never reaching Ellesmere Port.
PORTMEIRION
Portmeirion is an Italianate resort village in Gwynedd, on the coast of Snowdonia. It's the most un-Welsh village in Wales! Sir Clough Williams-Ellis designed and constructed the village between 1925 and 1975. It is certainly one of the most mesmerising follies in the British Isles!
It has achieved cult status as the place where the TV series 'The Prisoner' was filmed.
Because Williams-Ellis feared he wouldn't live long enough to see his designs come to fruition, the buildings were put together using techniques. for fast building like plywood and wattle and daub and pieces bought in from other places, such as wall panelling, that were being disposed of. However, a lot of his work has since been consolidated.
It is good to know that during Williams-Ellis' lifetime, the future of Portmeirion was assured, as the village has been designated as being of historical and architectural significance.
RAGLAN CASTLE
Another of the impressive castle ruins in Wales. The castle is probably most closely associated with William ap Thomas, who fought with King Henry V at the Battle of Agincourt in 1415. In 1426, ap Thomas was knighted by Henry VI, becoming known to his compatriots as "the blue knight of Gwent." Sir William Herbert, Earl of Pembroke, was the next owner of the castle, and it is Herbert who is responsible for Raglan's distinctive Tudor-styling. The castle was also the boyhood home of Henry Tudor, later King Henry VII. As a boy he bided his time at Raglan, while his uncle Jasper agitated a Lancastrian return to the throne in the person of young Henry.
As a prominent Yorkist, he played a major role in securing the throne for Edward IV in 1461, and was raised to the peerage as Lord Herbert of Raglan. Eventually rising to earl of Pembroke, his political career is reflected in his sumptuous building. Under Herbert, Raglan became a veritable palace, unmatched in the 15th century southern March. Herbert was beheaded following his defeat at the battle of Edgecote in 1469
The Great Tower, known as "The Yellow Tower of Gwent," is the most striking feature at Raglan. It was begun by Sir William ap Thomas and was designed very much in contemporary French style. Unfortunately, the tower was largely destroyed by Parliamentary forces during the English Civil War.
In 1492, Elizabeth Herbert married Sir Charles Somerset, a natural son of Henry Beaufort, third duke of Somerset, and it is to the Somerset family as earls of Worcester that we owe the final architectural touches of the castle.
At the outbreak of the Civil War, Raglan was garrisoned for the king. Henry, the new earl, and later marquess of Worcester, poured his fortune into the royal cause. By 1646 the castle was under siege, one of the longest of the Civil War. It was pounded by heavy artillery under the command of Sir Thomas Fairfax, and finally the elderly marquess was forced to surrender.
The fall of Raglan virtually marked the end of the Civil War, and Cromwell's demolition engineers were soon at work reducing the great walls. However, the strength of the Great Tower was almost great enough to defy them. Only after 'tedious battering the top thereof with pickaxes', did they eventually undermine the walls and two of its six sides were brought crashing down in a mass of falling masonry.
SKENFRITH
Skenfrith is a tiny little castle, standing in the countryside with half a dozen houses and a pretty little church. That's not to say, the castle wasn't important in it's day. There's not much to see there, so entry is free. It's a lovely spot though.
Skenfrith Castle is the only low-lying fortress of the three castles of Skenfrith, Grosmont and White Castle, now known as the castles of the Trilateral.
Initially the work of Norman William FitzOsbern, who had control of the Marches in the early 12th century. Sadly, nothing has survived. What we see today at Skenfrith Castle was constructed by another Norman lord, Hubert de Burgh, a structure composed of a four-sided curtain wall (with its towers) and the fascinating round keep which dominates the interior.
In 1239 the castle was seized by King Henry III, who in 1244 placed a lead roof on top of the king’s tower or central keep. This round tower in the middle of the castle was the last part of the fortress constructed by Hubert Burgh, and is not, as is often stated, built on the old castle motte. The recent excavations conclusively proved that this tower was built on top of the thirteenth century gravel used to infill the first castle of 1219.
Although Skenfrith seems small, when compared with its siblings, Grosmont and White, it is equally impressive.
Hubert de Burgh had a chequered career serving the Norman monarchy in Wales. Perhaps his greatest achievement (aside from the castles) was his success against French forces led by King Philip Augustus. After de Burgh's triumph, King Henry II granted de Burgh full rights to Skenfrith, White and Grosmont Castles. From 1219 to 1232 the Norman lord remodelled the earth and timber castle at Skenfrith into the enchanting site that survives today. Not surprisingly, de Burgh patterned his new castle at Skenfrith after ones he had encountered in France, which were dominated by round towers.
The pretty church of St. Bridget, built in the early 13th. century, is said to be one of the oldest churches in continuous use in Wales.
SNOWDONIA
Snowdonia (Welsh: Eryri) is a region in north Wales and a national park of 838 square miles (2,170 km2) in area. It was the first to be designated of the three National Parks in Wales, in 1951. Mountains, waterfalls, lakes, and little villages - perfect!
Llyn Gwynant (below) lies about 2 miles from Snowdon, on the river Glaslyn. It was used as a film location in 'Lara Croft Tomb Raider: The Cradle of Life'.
TAL-Y-LLIN PASS
For spectacular views, this road is hard to beat, as it winds its' way along a parapet halfway up the hill side. It's actually the A487 from Cross Foxes to Machynlleth. There is one view point, which affords spectacular views over the valley and lake below.
This large carpark is here for no apparent reason..........................unless you know that this area of Wales is more usually referred to as LFA07, or 'the Mach Loop'. This is where the RAF and various foreign air forces, practice extreme low-flying in mountainous areas.
You can get a list of the times they are flying here: You can park up (VERY busy in peak season), climb up on top of the hill and actually look down on the aircraft as they pass. You may see fighters (including the Red Arrows), heavy transport aircraft, helicopters and odd things like Ospreys.
TINTERN ABBEY
The Cistercian abbey of Tintern is one of the greatest monastic ruins of Wales. It was only the second Cistercian foundation in Britain, and the first in Wales, and was founded on 9 May 1131 by Walter de Clare, lord of Chepstow.
Standing in a wooded vale on the banks of the River Wye, its a romantic and calm place.
The Cistercian monks, were happy to make do with timber buildings at first. Abbot Henry, a reformed robber, was better known for his habit of crying at the altar than for his architectural ambitions.
A simple stone church and cloisters came later. But then, thanks to the patronage of wealthy Marcher lords, the white-robed monks began to think bigger. In 1269 they began to build a new abbey church and didn’t stop until they’d created one of the masterpieces of British Gothic architecture. The great west front with its seven lancet window and the soaring arches of the nave still take the breath away.
So grateful were the monks to their powerful patron Roger Bigod that they were still handing out alms on his behalf in 1535. But by then King Henry VIIIs English Reformation was well underway. Only a year later Tintern surrendered in the first round of the dissolution of the monasteries, and the great abbey began slowly to turn into a majestic ruin.
(below) the West window
(below) the North transept with the monks' day room in front
(below)the Great East Window
Tintern was much loved by J.M.W. Turner, and it is partly due to his paintings and those of the other Romantic artists in the late 18th./early 19th. century, that Tintern became such a tourist attraction.
VALE OF RHEIDOL
The Vale of Rheidol is famous for its narrow-gauge railway, which climbs over 680 feet from Aberystwyth, along the valley. The Railway is one of the Great Little Trains Of Wales, and the trip, an hour in each direction, leads to the marvellous Devils Bridge Falls.
Most of my pictures of the scenery were actually taken from the train. Until privatisation in 1989, it was the only narrow gauge line operated by British Rail with their only remaining steam locomotives. Initially built to support the lead mines by carrying lead down to the harbour at Aberystwyth, it opened to passengers in 1902.
This is probably my favourite of all the heritage train lines I've ridden.
VALLE CRUCIS ABBEY
Valle Crucis (Valley of the Cross) takes its name from from Eliseg's Pillar nearby, which would already have stood for nearly four centuries when the abbey was established in 1201. The new foundation was a Cistercian house, a 'daughter' of Strata Marcella, near Welshpool; its patron was Madog ap Gruffudd Maelor, ruler of northern Powys. So that the abbey could enjoy solitude required by the order, the existing settlement of Llangwestl was removed to Stansty, north-west of Wrexham.
Like all Cistercian Abbeys, it is situated in an incredibly peaceful location, at the foot of the Horseshoe Pass, just outside Llangollen.
It is unusual, in the fact that one wing still remains intact. Apparently, this was because when the Abbey was destroyed during the Dissolution of the Monasteries, the local lord asked if he could keep this part intact to use as a farm building.
(below) the impressive west front with the beautiful tracery of the rose window is the first thing you see as you approach the abbey.
(below) the east end wall, overlooking the last remaining monastic fish pond in Wales.
(below) the exterior of the East range - this was the part that was left standing at the request of the local lord.
(below) the interior of the chapter house.
(below) the western end of the nave.
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