YORKSHIRE

Yorkshire is full of anomalies. It contains huge cities and towns, tiny little hamlets of less than 100 people, and vast open spaces. From the gently rolling Yorkshire Dales to the bleak cragginess of the North Yorkshire Moors, it seems that there's a surprise around every corner.

AYSGARTH

EMMERDALE

GOATHLAND

HAWES

HELMSLEY

HOLMFIRTH

KETTLEWELL

KNARESBOROUGH

LEEDS

NORTH YORKS MOORS

NORTH YORKS MOORS RAILWAY

RIBBLEHEAD VIADUCT

RIEVAULX ABBEY

RIPLEY

SCARBOROUGH

TAN HILL

WHITBY

YORK

AYSGARTH

Famed for its' waterfalls, which are either magnificent or not much to look at, depending on whether or not it has rained recently! There are three falls - Upper, Middle and Lower Falls, and together, they stretch for a mile along the River Ure.

EMMERDALE

Of course, Emmerdale is not a real place, and the TV series is in fact, filmed in several locations. This is the Woolpack, the centre of fictitious life in Emmerdale.

GOATHLAND

Mind the sheep! The land here belongs to the Duchy of Lancaster (i.e. the Monarch), and the tenants have the historic right to graze sheep on the village green - much to the delight of the woolly residents! 

A tiny little village that lies hidden in between the North Yorks Moors. It has become a major tourist attraction since it became the home of the TV series 'Heartbeat'. It is served by a steep, narrow twisting road, and a station on the North Yorks Moors Railway.

Above - 'Aidensfield Stores', below, the 'Aidensfield Arms'

HAWES

Deep in the Dales, is the town of Hawes. Old, but once upon a time posh, buildings, and this little waterfall right in the middle of the town. Hawes is also home to the Wensleydale Creamery, where you can watch Wensleydale cheese being made, and try and buy all the different flavours, and other products in their shop. They are sponsored by Wallace and Grommit no less!

From Hawes, you can easily travel up the Buttertubs Pass (well, I say easily.................) to the Tan Hill Inn, and through Ribblesdale to the Ribblehead Viaduct.

HELMSLEY

Helmsley was once an important market town in the Dales, and this fact shows in the magnificent central square, with its' monument and impressive buildings. 

The memorial is to the 2nd. Baron Feversham, whose home was at nearby Duncombe Park. It was designed by Sir Gilbert Scott, who designed the Albert Memorial. He was a Tory MP, and later, sat in the House of Lords upon inheriting the title. He was a cattle breeder and heavily involved with the Royal Agricultural Society. He was also a staunch supporter of the Factory Reform movement.

HOLMFIRTH

Continuing the never-ending list of Yorkshire places used by TV and film, we come to Holmfirth - seen as 'home' to the characters of 'Last Of The Summer Wine' for almost 30 years.

This is Norah Batty's house - now known as the Wrinkly Stockings tea room.

and this is Ivy's cafe - still exactly as it was

The nearby open moorland of Holme Moss used to present a problem with people driving motor vehicles. A problem which has thankfully I believe now been rectified.

On the summit of Holme Moss is a car park with an amazing viewpoint over the surrounding area.

There is also a radio transmitter, ideally located to transmit to a huge area.

It used to be, that if you stopped your engine to take advantage of those wonderful views, your vehicle wouldn't start again, and the only cure was to freewheel down the hillside in either direction, until you were far enough from the transmitter for it not to affect you! 

Further out past Holme Moss, the road climbs up over Saddleworth Moor - a bleak, desolate and wind-swept place. I rode over it in torrential rain, which only served to add to the misery and memories of the horrible history the place had during the early 60s.

KETTLEWELL

Quite one of my favourite places. It's the kind of place you have to know is there to find it. It's along the road from Bolton Abbey to Hawes, and if you blink, you'll miss it.

The first day we went there, we stood in the middle of the almost dry river bed. It rained overnight, and when we went back the next day, the spot where we had stood was under water. The ducks enjoyed it though!

The New Bridge, as it was called, was built to replace an ancient ford over the River Wharfe.

Behind this garage (where apparently they fix everything from Rolls Royces to lawnmowers), there is a large car and coach park and decent toilets. Kettlewell has thus become a good stop-off point for tourists

The Blue Bell Inn is just across the bridge from the car park, and opposite the car park is the lovely Cottage Tea Rooms. They do an excellent breakfast!

KNARESBOROUGH

Knaresborough has a fascinating and varied history. Its roots go back centuries and throughout its long history it has been peopled with a wealth of characters, from Hugh de Morville, murderer of Thomas Beckett on the steps of his cathedral at Canterbury, to Blind Jack, the world renowned road builder.
For most of its history, Knaresborough Castle has been in royal control, and it has retained this long tradition to the present day. It is now in the possession of the Crown, as part of the Queen's inheritance of the Duchy of Lancaster - something that irks most of the Yorkist residents of this pretty little town.
After the battle of Marston Moor in July 1644, the castle was besieged, and finally surrendered when cannon breached the wall on December 20. In 1646 Parliament ordered the castle to be rendered untenable, and by 1648 demolition had commenced.

Throughout the town, you can find these reminders of the Civil War, and of the Royalists' battle against the Commonwealth troops. If you think about it though, these Georgian houses weren't built until long after the Civil War ended!

This is the beautiful view from the curtain wall of the 14th. century castle, looking out over the River Nidd, the Forest of Knaresborough, and the Victorian railway viaduct that spans the River Nidd. The viaduct was built in 1851 to carry a branch line of the Leeds & Thirsk Railway and is 78 feet above the water

LEEDS

One of the largest towns in Yorkshire, Leeds is a mecca for shoppers. The shopping area is huge - it would take you several days to visit all the shops, and the market is enormous, with fresh food catering for every ethnic taste, and so many other stalls it's unbelievable.
The city itself does not always present an appearance as impressive as some others, but it has its nice points.

  a rather nice mural near the entrance to the markets

 

One of the many statues, this is Edward, The Black Prince in the City Square, a bronze by Thomas Brock.  There are other statues of other worthy local people (Joseph Priestley, John Harrison, James Watt and Dr Walter Hook) and statues of eight nymphs, light standards by sculptor Alfred Drury.

THE NORTH YORKS MOORS

If you like huge sweeping vistas, then you'll love the open moors.

This is the Hole Of Horcum, along the Pickering to Whitby road. There is a large car park for the viewing point there, and it is well worth crossing the road and staring down into this huge hole in the ground. The colours, and the mood changes with the light and the time of year, but it is always spectacular.

The car park always used to be free, but I understand it is now chargeable. The natural amphitheatre was formed by springs eroding the limestone above lower layers of clay.

According to local legend, the hole was excavated either by the Devil, or a giant named Wade, who haunted the Cleveland Hills. As he scooped out the rocks, he hurled them more than a mile to the east, to form the outcrop known as Blakey Topping.

THE NORTH YORKS MOORS RAILWAY

The North Yorkshire Moors Railway operates steam trains along an 18 mile line between the market town of Pickering and the village of Grosmont, through the heart of the North York Moors National Park.

If you're lucky, as we were, you'll catch a train hauled by the Sir Nigel Gresley, which was on loan from the National Railway Museum in York. It's a splendid way to travel! The magnificent streamlined A4 Pacific locomotives were designed by Sir Nigel Gresley, so it is appropriate that this one bears his name. It was introduced on east coast express trains in 1935.

It was another A4 Pacific, 'Mallard', that set the world speed record for a steam-hauled train. On 3 July 1938, Mallard raced down Stoke Bank at 126mph to set the record. That record still stands and probably now, always will.

THE RIBBLEHEAD VIADUCT

This magnificent piece of Victorian engineering stands, as its' name suggests, at the head of Ribbledale, on the Settle to Carlisle line. Appearing, as it seems, out of nowhere, it is a major tourist must-see. 24 arches, 1328ft. long, it heads towards the great ridge of Ingleborough, 2373ft above sea level.

and yes, that's me, riding 'Arfur' (cos he's my 'Daley' transport!) If you're not British, you wouldn't understand!

RIEVAULX ABBEY

Hidden in the deep River Rye valley, the beautiful and tranquil abbey ruins reflect nearly one thousand years of spiritual, commercial and Romantic history.
Rievaulx was one of the first Cistercian abbeys to be founded in England in around 1130, and after the dissolution, became the centre of commercial activity for many years. The abbey forge was used to set up an ironworks on the site.
The abbey then entered its Romantic period when its picturesque ruins became a beacon for poets, painters, and scholars. It was one of the first major ruins to be conserved by the Office of Works (ancestor of English Heritage) in 1917.

Once one of the most important Cistercian abbeys in the world, Rievaulx suffered, like many others, at the hands of Henry VIII. It is accessed down a very narrow, very steep road,  (Rievaulx Bank) just outside Helmsley, and is a place of absolute beauty and tranquility.

As well as the obligatory tea-rooms, it has a nice little museum, showing just how the monks of Rievaulx lived.

Pictured below, flanking the refectory entrance, was the laver, where monks washed in pewter basins set in a wall arcade.

The presbytery (below) is one of the finest examples of Early English architecture in Northern England

So, the Cistercians built it (and they really knew how to build incredible edifices), Henry VIII had it torn down, and, in the 1750s, Thomas Duncombe created a high Terrace from which his friends could view those 'romantic ruins'. 

Actually, this probably did the ruins a bit of a favour, as it became much loved by artists and writers. Given the hidden nature of the location, this kept the abbey in the forefront of people's minds, and it became a place worth conserving.

Much of the eastern part of the abbey still stands at almost its full height, and the whole is absolutely stunning

RIPLEY

Ripley village is as fascinating and visually attractive as the castle which overshadows it, a glorious combination of stone cottages and cobbled squares, past relics and modern reminders of a community which is seasonally under siege.

It stands just off the main A61 from Harrogate to Ripley, and being bypassed, has an air of quiet and peace.

It's also got a marvellous village store, with some of the best pies to be found anywhere in Yorkshire.

The castle is owned by the Ingilby family. Set in a 1,700-acre estate, which takes in the entire village, which was so decimated by the plague in the 1620s that it had to be virtually rebuilt by one of the Ingilby ancestors, Sir William Amcotts Ingilby, who styled the stone terraced cottages on the villages of Alsace-Lorraine which had so inspired him during his travels.

At the 15th century church of All Saints, are a series of marks on the east wall created by Cromwell's soldiers as they executed Royalist prisoners after the battle of Marston Moor.

The Boar's Head Hotel was named in remembrance of King Edward III's brush with death when he fell from his horse in the forest and was nearly gored by a wild boar. Thomas Ingilby of Ripley, hero of the hour, swiftly killed the animal which was promptly turned into the main course at the ensuing banquet, and earned himself a knighthood and family crest for his trouble.

(above) The Boar's Head Hotel. (below) The village tap is in the shape of a Boar, as you can see.

SCARBOROUGH

Despite being very busy during the tourist season, Scarborough always seems to come across as a sleepy Victorian seaside town. I think this is largely due to the seafront area being very wide and open, so that at no time does it seem to be crowded. A Roman signal station was established on the cliffs here in the 4th century, but the town itself was founded by the Viking Thorgils Skarthi around 966 AD.

It's also very biker friendly, with ample provision for quality motorcycle parking, in places where cars just cannot get.

On the outskirts of the town is Oliver's Mount, a private racetrack much loved by riders of classic racing motorcycles. The track is built into a hillside, and winds its' way through woodland. 

TAN HILL

The Inn at Tan Hill is England's highest pub, standing 1732 feet above sea level. It's a beautiful, and extremely remote spot. Be warned - if you intend going to it via the Buttertubs Pass (supposedly England's most spectacular pass) from Hawes, be prepared for some extremely tricky roads! There's one road which climbs at the rate of 1:3, which is also little wider than a car, and features a 180 degree uphill hairpin!

We made it, but opted to return via a slightly longer, but less aggressive route! Be prepared also, for the chickens, ducks and sheep who wander in and out of the pub at will, and are generally found snoozing in front of the fire, which is kept alight all year round.

This is their choice of transport in inclement weather..............................'nuff said! Actually, you can rent this for the night, as sleeping accommodation!

WHITBY

Of course, everyone knows Whitby Abbey, and its' connections with Dracula, but there is much more to this little fishing town.

The Abbey ruins sit high on a cliff overlooking the town, and the atmosphere, even without knowing Bram Stoker's story, is menacing.

The abbey, which was built on the site of an Anglo-Saxon monastery from 657AD, was built in the late 11th. century, extensively rebuilt in the 1220s, and dissolved at the order of Henry VIII in 1539.

Just below the Abbey ruins, is the church of St. Mary and its graveyard. From there down to the cobbled streets and the harbour below, there is a flight of 199 steps! (Not too bad going down - different matter walking back up!)

 

The town is divided in two by the River Esk and the harbour. 

  

YORK

York is not only the County Town of North Yorkshire, but also home to the second-most important church in the Anglican faith, after Canterbury. The Minster is large and impressive.

The town itself, has the remarkable Jorvik museum, which allows you to take a time-ride back to the days of the Viking occupation of York, and which was the first of the 'living' museums of this type. It is also home to the National Railway Museum, and the amazing Castle Museum, where you can wander along a Victorian cobbled street, and in and out of the shops.

There is also the Shambles - a warren of narrow medieval streets and alleys, known as 'snickelways', which has coined its' own term for exploring them - 'snickeling'

Altogether a must-see if you're touring the area.

This is the Lendal Bridge in the heart of the city.

The gun outside of the Castle Museum

Part of the impressive buildings which contain the Castle Museum, built around 3 sides of the green. They were formerly the 18th. century debtor and women's prisons.

Clifford's Tower occupies the fourth side. Built to subdue the rebellious north by William the Conqueror, Clifford’s Tower has been a royal mint, a medieval stronghold and a Civil War garrison. In 1190, one of the worst anti-semitic massacres of the Middle Ages took place on the site of the tower when York’s Jewish community were trapped there by a violent mob and many Jews chose to commit suicide rather than be murdered.

In 1322 the tower gained its present name when Roger de Clifford was executed by Edward II for treason. Clifford was hanged in chains from the tower walls, and ever after the building has been popularly known as 'Clifford's Tower'.

Just outside the city walls, is the National Railway Museum. Even if you're not a train enthusiast, it's an interesting place to visit, as it charts the entire history of rail travel, from the first horse-drawn rail wagons to the latest bullet trains.

Outside the museum complex, there are railway tracks, so that working exhibits can connect to the main rail network, and there are also external exhibits, like this crane.

Even the ice-cream vans are old!