The River Tamar marks the border of Devon with the county of Cornwall. In years gone by the Tamar was as much a cultural barrier as a geographic one; Cornwall was one of the last bastions of pre-Celtic culture in England. The original British inhabitants of the island were pushed back across the river by the encroaching Celts, and succeeding generations of Romans and Saxons isolated the Cornish inhabitants further.
It was not that long ago that Cornish maintained its own version of Gaelic language, and certainly Cornish folklore and customs remain one of the unique and attractive features that set the county apart from the rest of England.For the sake of simplification, Cornwall can be divided into two coasts, the south, with its warm breezes and semitropical air, and the rugged north coast, where the wind whips off the Atlantic onto rocky headlands and draws surfer-seekers and walkers like a magnet.
BOSCASTLE
CHARLESTOWN
JAMAICA INN
LANDS END
LOOE
MARAZION & ST. MICHAEL'S MOUNT
PADSTOW
POLPERRO
PORT ISAAC
ST. AGNES
ST. IVES
TINTAGEL
BOSCASTLE
Boscastle (Cornish: Kastel Boterel) is a village and fishing port on the north coast of Cornwall. It is 14 miles (23 km) south of Bude and 5 miles (8 km) northeast of Tintagel.
It's another of those pretty little fishing villages with which Cornwall abounds. The harbour is deep set into the cliffs, and you need to climb up to the viewing point to see it in its entirety.
A flash flood on 16 August 2004 caused extensive damage to the village. Residents were trapped in houses as the roads turned into rivers: people were trapped on roofs, in cars, in buildings and on the river's banks. and the village's visitor centre was washed away
Boscastle was flooded again on 21 June 2007 although the scale of destruction was not nearly as serious as in 2004.
Boscastle's small harbour dates to the 16th.century, when it was built to handle slate from the nearby Delabole quarries, and it is now looked after by the National Trust.
The curious thing about Boscastle harbour is, you can see the boats tied up, but you can't see either the entrance or the sea! From the view below, the boats turn right, then sharp left through the narrow harbour entrance, completely hidden from view. It's then still a fair distance to where the river finally empties into the sea.
Entering the harbour could be fraught with peril, so every ship was towed into the harbour by a 'hobbler' boat, rowed by 8 men, while more men on shore used ropes to keep the ship in the centre of the channel. Once ships were safely at anchor, goods were offloaded and put on carts. Strong teams of horses pulled the carts up the steep slope out of Boscastle. The horses were often kept at the Palace Stables, which is now the youth hostel.
CHARLESTOWN
The harbour village of Charlestown was a Georgian 'new town', a port development planned by local landowner Charles Rashleigh (after whom it was named) and built between 1790 and 1810 for the export of copper and china clay. Before that, it was a tiny pilchard fishing village known as West Polmear, with no harbour and only 3 cottages.
Throughout the nineteenth century the little dock was packed with ships and the harbourside sheds and warehouses thronged with complementary businesses: boatbuilding, ropemaking, brickworks, lime burning, net houses, bark houses and pilchard curing.
Today there are two remarkable things about Charlestown. One is that, against all the odds, it has survived as a working port and a small amount of china clay is still exported in an average of 30-40 ships a year, and this saves the place from becoming a cosy caricature of itself with plenty of 'heritage appeal' but no real life.
The second is that - again, against all the odds - it has largely escaped 'development' and remains one of the finest and most fascinating places on the Cornish coast.
Perhaps the words "so far" should be added to these two observations, for who knows what will happen to Charlestown in the future?
The harbour is the home port for a famous collection of old ships which are employed in film projects all over the world - they have brought work and life to the quays and harbour buildings and are a particular draw for visitors.
We do wonder though, how they get such large sailing ships through the tiny harbour entrance!
The harbour is officially Grade II listed. The listing gives a summary of the harbour's history, and it is a worthy read. You can find it on the Historic England site here
The picture above shows the gantry and chute used in loading china clay onto the boats below
JAMAICA INN
Jamaica Inn hotel, Cornwall's legendary coaching house, immortalised in Daphne du Maurier's novel of the same name, has stood high on Bodmin Moor, at Bolventor, for over four centuries. If you haven't read the book, do so, and then visit the place. It's remarkable! The interior is largely untouched, which gives the inn an amazing atmosphere, and it is reputedly haunted. In fact they run regular ghost hunts and murder mystery evenings.
Located just off the A30, near the middle of Bodmin moor close to the hamlet of Bolventor, it was built in 1750 and used as a staging post for changing horses. The inn is alleged to be one of the most haunted places in Great Britain. Daphne du Maurier wrote her novel in 1930 when, having gone horse riding on the moors, she became lost in thick fog and sought refuge at the inn. During the time spent recovering from her ordeal, the local rector is said to have entertained her with ghost stories and tales of smuggling; he would later become the inspiration for the enigmatic character of the Vicar of Altarnun, a nearby hamlet.
The inn sign depicts Joss Merlin, the landlord, and leader of the band of wreckers in DuMaurier's book.
There is a museum and bookshop down the side of the inn, dedicated to smugglers and Daphne Du Maurier.
LANDS END
the most westerly point in mainland England. The most visited outdoor tourist attraction in the County, Lands End has rugged wave lashed cliffs, stunning views, the Longships Lighthouse and Wolf Rock off shore, the Isles of Scilly in the distance. 2500 miles away across the Atlantic Ocean is America.
Land's End has been the centre of Cornish legends. Some tales tell that the lost land of Lyonesse - a sort of British version of Atlantis - lies beneath the sea, and even that the spires of churches can be seen poking up from the ocean floor if conditions are right. Sailor's tales say that the sound of bells beneath the waves can be heard. Lyonesse was also said to be the lost Camelot of King Arthur legend.
LOOE
The historic twin towns of East and West Looe provide all you could ask of a holiday in Cornwall. Safe beaches, quality accommodation, a wide choice of restaurants, excellent walking routes, fishing trips, diving, etc, etc.
During the day East Looe beach offers safe swimming, sun bathing or perfect sand for budding castle builders. Just beyond the main beach, and also at West Looe, the golden sand gives way to rocks and rock pools. Here a whole new world is awaiting those who like exploring, the individual pools changing with every tide. Bright red and green sea anemones wave their many arms in the current whilst tiny shrimps dart for cover under rocks at the slightest movement.
Looe really is a pretty, old-fashioned seaside town, with plenty of places to eat and many individual shops to browse. It is centred around a picturesque harbour, and everywhere is within an easy stroll.
The Looe river is navigable for quite a distance inland, creating quite a haven for both fishing boats and leisure craft, and making a very pleasant river-side walk.
MARAZION & ST. MICHAEL'S MOUNT
Marazion is widely famed as being the gateway to the enchanting Saint Michael's Mount, the jewel in Cornwall's crown. Saint Michael's Mount is accessed by a causeway, which is revealed at low tide. At other times visitors are ferried from Marazion to the Mount in small boats.
From as far back as 495AD, tales tell of seafarers lured by mermaids onto the rocks, or guided to safety by an apparition of St Michael. The patron saint of fishermen, it’s said the Archangel Michael appeared on the western side of the island – below where the entrance to the castle is today – to ward fishermen from certain peril. It’s a legend which has brought pilgrims, monks and people of faith to the island ever since, to pray, to praise and to celebrate.
St. Michael's Mount is looked after by the National Trust. They charge for the abbey/castle all year round, but access to the rest of the island is free during the off-season
Edward the Confessor (1042-66) built a chapel on the mount and handed over the abbey to the Benedictine Mont St Michel in France. The present church was begun in 1135 by Abbot Bernard of Mont St Michel and consecrated in 1144. The church was a major pilgrimage destination throughout the Middle Ages.
In 1193, the abbey was seized by Henry de la Pomeray. He began to build a castle, but committed suicide in fear of the consequences when Richard the Lionheart returned from the Crusades. Four miracles were reported in 1262 and 1263, leading to many more pilgrims.
St Michael's Mount gradually separated itself from its French counterpart and in 1385 Richard Auncell of Tavistock became the first non French prior. In 1424 Henry VI granted the monastery to Syon Abbey.
Henry V appropriated the mount during the Hundred Years War, and it became a fortress after the dissolution in 1548. The first beacon to warn of the arrival of the Spanish Armada was lit here in 1588.
The castle was used to store arms for the Royalist forces during the English Civil War. Afterwards, in 1659, Colonel St Aubyn purchased the Mount and his descendents still live in the castle today. In 1954 it was given to the National Trust, with the St Aubyn family retaining a 999 year lease to live in the castle.
In 1193, the abbey was seized by Henry de la Pomeray. He began to build a castle, but committed suicide in fear of the consequences when Richard the Lionheart returned from the Crusades. Four miracles were reported in 1262 and 1263, leading to many more pilgrims.
St Michael's Mount gradually separated itself from its French counterpart and in 1385 Richard Auncell of Tavistock became the first non French prior. In 1424 Henry VI granted the monastery to Syon Abbey.
Henry V appropriated the mount during the Hundred Years War, and it became a fortress after the dissolution in 1548. The first beacon to warn of the arrival of the Spanish Armada was lit here in 1588.
The castle was used to store arms for the Royalist forces during the English Civil War. Afterwards, in 1659, Colonel St Aubyn purchased the Mount and his descendents still live in the castle today. In 1954 it was given to the National Trust, with the St Aubyn family retaining a 999 year lease to live in the castle.
PADSTOW
Padstow is a small fishing port on the west bank of the Camel estuary. It is probably more famous now for the seafood restaurants owned by Rick Stein and Paul Ainsworth. They are probably the biggest tourist draw in what is otherwise a small town much praised for its' light by artists and very little else
POLPERRO
What a magical place! The village clings to either side of a long, narrow gorge which leads down to the sea. Visitor's motor vehicles are not allowed in the village, so you have to park up and walk down to the harbour, but take a horse-drawn bus or a converted electric milk float back up the hill - and that seems perfectly in keeping with the old, pretty fishing village. Motorcycles are well catered for in the village car park, with the bike park space not only being highly visible, but also having a roof! Nice! Most car parks shove us in some little corner out of the way. Polperro makes you feel welcome.
Halfway down to the harbour is a Cornish Pasty shop, and I have it on very good authority (me :) ) that they are very good.
Polperro is a 13th century fishing village, originally belonging to the ancient Raphael manor mentioned in the Domesday Book. Fishing has been the principal occupation of its inhabitants for centuries, and pilchards were often caught in abundance to be sold far and wide.
When Britain was at war with its neighbours in the 18th century, duty on many goods was increased considerably, encouraging the Polperro fishermen to smuggle goods such as tea, gin, brandy and tobacco across from Guernsey.
PORT ISAAC
This is the village where the TV series 'Doc Martin' was filmed. It's small, and quite breathtakingly beautiful.
Port Isaac, was a busy coastal port from the Middle Ages to the mid 19th. century when it was an active harbour where cargoes like stone, coal, timber and pottery, slate and corn were loaded and unloaded. In fact, the name 'Port Isaac' has nothing to do with 'Isaac' but comes from the Cornish 'Porth Izzick', meaning 'corn port'.
Fishing and fish-processing were also important and today there are still fishermen working from here although tourism plays an increasingly important role.
Most of the old centre of the village consists of 18th. and 19th. century cottages, many officially listed as of architectural or historic importance, along narrow alleys and 'opes' winding down steep hillsides.
If you drive down the main road into the village and bear right at the bottom, there is a small car park. In peak summer it is generally too full, so you are forced to use the 'park and ride' service from the road in. From this small car park however, you can either walk along the road into the main village, or, walk to the edge of the car park nearest the sea and you will find a footpath that hugs the stone wall above and rejoins the roadway further down. The path is well-worth taking, as it offers some stunning views of the harbour.
The area surrounding the harbour was declared at Conservation Area in 1971, preserving it from modern development and protecting the 90 listed buildings near the harbour
Where the pretty buildings crowd round the harbour slip, we found a lovely little cafe called 'Cupcakes'. Excellent coffee and bacon rolls.........
As well as the famed 'Doc Martin' TV series, Port Isaac has also been the scene of a cinematic film, 'Fisherman's Friends'. The film is based on a true story about Fisherman's Friends, a group of Cornish fishermen from Port Isaac who were signed by Universal Records and achieved a top 10 hit with their debut album of traditional sea shanties. The Group still performs regularly, and releases the occasional record. There has also been a film sequel. You can catch them on YouTube, but meanwhile, here's a sample of their talent
St. Agnes is a large village, formerly a centre for tin mining, sloping down to a small cove that is much beloved by surfers. Sitting on the north coast of Cornwall, this area was the inspiration for Winston Graham's 'Poldark' novels.
We came across a row of sea captains' cottages on a steep hill called 'Stippy-Stappy'.
ST. IVES
St. Ives is a busy tourist destination, with a magnificent harbour. It's a good place to watch seals, as we found out. Once the home of artist Barbara Hepworth, there is a museum and sculpture garden dedicated to her, and the Tate has a branch here, showcasing the best in modern art. The light here is so good, it was much loved by artists such as Turner, Sickert and Whistler, all of whom are represented in the Tate.
Less well known, is this view of St. Ives, painted by Ben Nicholson in 1943/5, also from The Tate
TINTAGEL
One of the most mystical places in England. According to one legend the infant Arthur was thrown by the waves on the beach by Merlin's cave. King Arthur's time in history was in the fifth century. He is identified with the known history of a Celtic chieftain of the period who led his countrymen in the West in their resistance against Saxon invaders. Many believe that Arthur was of a mixed Roman and British parentage.
Geoffrey of Monmouth, in his 12th. century History of the Kings of Britain asserted that Arthur was conceived at Tintagel, during the troubled times of the Roman withdrawal from these Isles. It is probable that Arthur is not entirely fictitious, but heavily based on a character in earlier Welsh literature.
Whoever he was (or maybe wasn't) is largely irrelevant. The important point is that he was important in binding together the people from the disparate tribes of the British Isles. He became the hero that everyone, no matter where they came from, could believe in.
It is always difficult to prove if Arthur did exist but certainly there was a great warrior in the West of England who had some kind of fortress where Tintagel Castle, (King Arthur's Castle) is today. The original fortress has gone but archaeologists have found proof in their diggings on the Tintagel Castle, that fifth century citizens lived on the site. The replacement Castle was built between 1230-1236 & is now nearly 800 years old. Within two hundred years the Castle was in ruins & remains so to this day.
Who built the castle is not known for certain, but it seems likely that it was the work of Richard, Earl of Cornwall (brother to Henry III). Richard owned the site from about 1234, which seems to coincide neatly with the presumed age of the castle.
The ruins are on top of two separate cliffs, which are reached by two very steep staircases. The access to them is down below the village of Tintagel, and they thoughtfully run a landrover shuttle up and down the hill. Which is just as well, because, believe me, after climbing up to the ruins, the last thing you want to do is walk back up the hill to the village.
For many years, one of my favourite pieces of classical music has been 'Tintagel' by Arthur Bax. I climbed up to the main ruin, sat on the grass looking out over Merlin's Cave, and listened to it on my iPod. It really brought home to me just how much Bax must have loved the place, and the mysteries surrounding it. If you are not familiar with this marvellous tone poem, here it is. It's only 15 minutes or so long, but for me, it completely encapsulates this world:
Since I last visited, there has been an overhaul of the access routes up to the castle ruins, with new steps and a bridge connecting the two halves. It is apparently now far less of an arduous climb. There is also a stunning new statue, which everyone assumes is of King Arthur.
(not my picture)
In fact, the statue, by Rubin Eynon, is called 'Gallos', which is 'power' in the Cornish language.
The Old Post Office (above) is a rare survival of a small manor house, built in the 14th. century. It was first built over 600 years ago as a farmhouse during the medieval period. Slowly modified over the centuries, it became more fashionable than functional. The house has served many purposes over time, but it has always been a home. Its final use was as the letter-receiving office for the village during the 1870s. It is Grade I listed.
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