Twinkle at Orleston Church, Kent

Twinkle at Orleston Church, Kent
Twinkle at Orleston Church, Kent

SCOTLAND



Like Wales, it was easier to create a page for the whole of Scotland, rather than split it into individual counties. This time, however, it's mostly because we seldom get the opportunity to venture North of the Border.

EDINBURGH
EILEAN DONAN CASTLE
GLEN COE
KAGYU SAMYE LING
LANGHOLM
LOCKERBIE
MOFFAT
TRAQUAIR HOUSE


EDINBURGH

Scotland's capital, and beautiful city, really needs few words of explanation. Crowned by the huge castle, and surrounded by hills, everything is contained in a relatively small area.

For over 3,000 years, Castle Rock has provided a place of safety from attack. In ancient times, it was called Din Eidyn (the stronghold of Eidyn). Then about 638 AD, the Angles invaded, and changed the name to Edinburgh.


The 1 o'clock gun being fired. The One O'Clock Gun is fired every day (except Sundays, Good Friday and Christmas Day) at precisely 13:00, allowing citizens and visitors to check their clocks and watches. 
The origin of the tradition lies in the days when sailing ships in the Firth of Forth were able to check and reset their chronometers in the days before accurate timepieces were available. It accompanies a visual signal from a time-ball on top of the Nelson Monument on Calton Hill. It first took place in 1861. The present gun is a 105mm field gun.


And - almost unbelievably - there was a woman who addressed the soldier as he was making his way to his position, and asked him what time the one o'clock gun was being fired! I kid you not.............





Mons Meg is a medieval bombard in the collection of the Royal Armouries, on loan to Historic Scotland and located at Edinburgh Castle. It has a barrel diameter of 20 inches (510 mm) making it one of the largest cannons in the world by calibre.

Mons Meg was built in 1449 on the orders of Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy and sent by him as a gift to James II, King of Scots, in 1454. The bombard was employed in sieges until the middle of the 16th century, after which it was only fired on ceremonial occasions. In 1680 the barrel burst, rendering Mons Meg unusable. The gun remained in Edinburgh Castle until 1754 when, along with other unused weapons in Scotland, it was taken to the Tower of London. Sir Walter Scott and others campaigned for its return, which was effected in 1829. Mons Meg has since been restored and is now on display within the castle precincts.

St. Margaret's Chapel. This is the oldest building in Edinburgh, built around 1130. It was built by David I as a private chapel for the royal family, and dedicated to his mother, Margaret. She died in the castle in 1093. It was converted into a gunpowder store in the 16th. century, before being returned to its original use in 1845. It is still in use today, for christenings and weddings.

The Scottish National War Memorial - a very atmospheric place to pause and reflect. The interior is grandly beautiful, and you would never guess that the building was originally barracks.


The magnificent entrance to the Scottish National War Memorial, unveiled in 1927. It commemorates the 100,000 Scots who died in the First World War and since. In bronze and stained glass, the memorial depicts every imaginable contribution to war service, including those made by transport mules, carrier pigeons, and even the mice and canaries used to detect gas in the trenches.

The Royal Palace, which dominates Crown Square. It is where the sovereign resided, and where James V's widow, Marie de Guise died, and where James VI of Scotland and I of England was born to Mary, Queen of Scots.

The Half Moon Battery is the chief high-level defence on the castle's vulnerable east front.

Beneath the gun platform lies the ruins of David's Tower, named for David II who commissioned it. It was brought down during a siege in 1571.

Views over Edinburgh from the castle walls, are stunning

The Firth of Forth and the Forth Rail Bridge can be seen

The parade ground at the entrance to the castle, is known as the Esplanade. Annually, it becomes the site of the world-famous Edinburgh Military Tattoo.

The walk up from the gatehouse. This is the usual route into the fortress. The central strip of small granite pieces provided better grip for horses' hooves.

The building on the left is the Argyle Tower, in effect the upper part of the Portcullis Gate, added in 1887.The tower is named for the 9th. Earl of Argyll, who was imprisoned in a room above the gate before his execution in 1685 for leading a rebellion against James VII.

The pet cemetery at the castle. (Don't let Stephen King frighten you!)

Since the middle of the 19th. century, this small space has been used for the burial of regimental mascots and officer's dogs.

The 'Lang Stair', a shorter, but steeper route up to the castle, comprises 70 steps. The plaque commemorates a successful raid on the castle in 1314 by Sir Thomas Randolph, Earl of Moray, during the Wars of Independence with England

And so to the rest of the city.......


Calton Hill - is  famous for its collection of historic monuments, which form some of the most important landmarks of the city. One of the most striking is the National Monument, inspired by the Parthenon in Athens. Intended to commemorate the Scottish servicemen who died in the Napoleonic Wars, it was never completed leaving just the twelve columns you see today.
Also look out for the Nelson Monument, shaped like an up-turned telescope. Completed in 1816 the monument commemorates the death of Admiral Lord Nelson at the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805. However in 1852 a time ball was added to the top to enable ships moored in the Firth of Forth to set their time-pieces accurately. The Nelson Monument is open to the public, and the Time Ball still drops at one o’clock six days a week.


the Scott Monument, which stands in Princes Street Gardens, is a Victorian Gothic monument to Scottish author Sir Walter Scott. It is the second largest monument to a writer in the world after the José Martí monument in Havana.


The Monument stands just over 200 feet high, and is decorated with carved figures of characters from Scott's novels. There are 4 stages, or platforms, on the climb from the Monument's base to the observation platform. (287 steps!)
At the base of the Monument is a statue of Scott with his favourite deerhound Maida, sculpted from Carrara marble by Sir John Steell and set on a platform of huge stone steps.

Greyfriar's Bobby

Greyfriar's Kirk was built in the grounds of a former Franciscan Friary that was dissolved in 1559. In the mid 1600s it was used as a barracks by Cromwell's troops and gunpowder was held in the tower. Perhaps inevitably, this exploded in the 18th century and destroyed the tower and damaged the two west bays.

Further disaster struck in January 1845 when a fire gutted part of the building. 

The National Covenant was signed here in 1638; this was a contract with God, signed by the Nobles, Ministers and thousands of ordinary Scots, who pledged themselves to defend Scotland's rights and the Presbyterian religion.

It was also the setting for the story of Greyfriars' Bobby. 

In 1850 a gardener called John Gray, together with his wife Jess and son John, arrived in Edinburgh. Unable to find work as a gardener he avoided the workhouse by joining the Edinburgh Police Force as a night watchman. To keep him company through the long winter nights John took on a partner, a diminutive Skye Terrier, his ‘watchdog’ called Bobby.

The years on the streets appear to have taken their toll on John, as he was treated by the Police Surgeon for tuberculosis. John eventually died of the disease on the 15th February 1858 and was buried in Greyfriars Kirkyard. Bobby soon touched the hearts of the local residents when he refused to leave his master’s grave, even in the worst weather conditions. The gardener and keeper of Greyfriars tried on many occasions to evict Bobby from the Kirkyard. In the end he gave up and provided a shelter for Bobby by placing sacking beneath two tablestones at the side of John Gray’s grave.

Bobby’s fame spread throughout Edinburgh. It is reported that almost on a daily basis the crowds would gather at the entrance of the Kirkyard waiting for the one o’clock gun that would signal the appearance of Bobby leaving the grave for his midday meal. Bobby would follow William Dow, a local joiner and cabinet maker to the same Coffee House that he had frequented with his now dead master, where he was given a meal.

In 1867 a new bye-law was passed that required all dogs to be licensed in the city or they would be destroyed. Sir William Chambers (The Lord Provost of Edinburgh) decided to pay Bobby’s licence and presented him with a collar with a brass inscription “Greyfriars Bobby from the Lord Provost 1867 licensed”. This can be seen at the Museum of Edinburgh. The kind folk of Edinburgh took good care of Bobby, but still he remained loyal to his master. For fourteen years the dead man’s faithful dog kept constant watch and guard over the grave until his own death in 1872.

Baroness Angelia Georgina Burdett-Coutts, President of the Ladies Committee of the RSPCA, was so deeply moved by his story that she asked the City Council for permission to erect a granite fountain with a statue of Bobby placed on top. Bobby’s headstone in the kirkyard  reads “Greyfriars Bobby – died 14th January 1872 – aged 16 years – Let his loyalty and devotion be a lesson to us all”.   

the Heart of Midlothian is a mosaic located outside St Giles' Cathedral in Edinburgh. The heart marks the location of the entrance to Edinburgh's Old Tolbooth which was demolished in 1817. Locals will often spit upon the heart as a sign of good luck. While the tradition is now one of good luck, it was originally believed to be done as a sign of disdain for the executions which took place within the Old Tolbooth.


Salisbury Crag & Arthur's Seat - These imposing rock formations lie to the west of Holyrood Park, at the bottom of the Royal Mile. The name Salisbury Crags derives from the first Earl of Salisbury, who accompanied Edward III of England on one of his invasions of Scotland.
Arthur's Seat is an ancient volcano. There is no Scottish tradition of King Arthur, but William Maitland proposed that the name was a corruption of Àrd-na-Said, implying the "Height of Arrows", which over the years became Arthur's Seat (perhaps via "Archer's Seat").


The Rose Fountain, directly below the castle, in Princes Street gardens


Below, this is how Princes Street gardens looked in the 70s, on my first visit to Edinburgh!


Love this view from the castle - Edinburgh in one photograph. Here we have a modern Big Wheel in Princes Street gardens, directly in front of the Scott Monument, Princes Street shops, the New Town, the Port of Leith, and the Firth of Forth beyond.


EILEAN DONAN CASTLE

Edinburgh may be Scotland's most famous castle, but this one is undoubtedly its most photographed.
The name Eilean Donan, or island of Donan, is most probably called after the 6th century Irish Saint, Bishop Donan who came to Scotland around 580 AD.
Eilean Donan played a role in the Jacobite risings of the 17th and 18th centuries, which ultimately culminated in the castles destruction.
The rebuilding of it was completed in 1932.






GLEN COE
The Massacre of Glencoe took place in Glen Coe in the Highlands of Scotland on 13 February 1692. An estimated 30 members and associates of Clan MacDonald of Glencoe were killed by Scottish government forces, allegedly for failing to pledge allegiance to the new monarchs, William III and Mary II.
Although the Jacobite rising of 1689 was no longer a serious threat by May 1690, unrest continued in the remote Highlands which consumed military resources the government needed for the Nine Years' War in Flanders. In late 1690, the Scottish government agreed to pay the Jacobite clan chiefs a total of £12,000 in return for swearing an oath of loyalty to William and Mary; however, disagreements over how to divide the money meant by December 1691 none of them had taken the oath.
Under pressure from William, Secretary of State Lord Stair decided to make an example as a warning of the consequences for further delay. The Glencoe MacDonalds were not the only ones who failed to meet the deadline, as the Keppoch MacDonalds did not swear until early February. The precise reasons why they were selected for punishment are still debated, but appear to have been a combination of internal clan politics and a reputation for lawlessness that made them an easy target.
The sheer atmosphere and the sorrowful  feeling are enhanced daily by the playing of the lone piper in the car park. He plays in the hope that folk will reward his skill, and they usually do


KAGYU SAMMYE LING - Tibetan Buddhist Centre & Monastery
This is a place that is special to me. Although it is a working monastery, visitors are welcome, free of charge, and there is a gift shop and delightful tea rooms to cater for the occasional visitor.
I'm not going to go into great detail about it, as it has such personal meaning for me, but I thought you'd like to see a few photos of what is truly a wonderful place of peace and tranquillity


The Green Tara, and the medicinal herb garden. The Sangha are the keepers of the knowledge of Tibetan medicine


This shrine stands where a lesser river flows into the River Esk, and is a guardian against flooding.
 

The Clootie tree- you make a small offering,  say a prayer, take a strip of coloured fabric out of the box and tie it to the tree. As the wind blows the ribbon,  the prayer is blown upwards


The Great Stupa.


The pond and statue of Guru Rinpoche. Padmasambhava ("Born from a Lotus"), also known as Guru Rinpoche (Precious Guru), was a tantric Buddhist Vajra master from India who may have taught Vajrayana in Tibet (circa 8th - 9th centuries). According to some early Tibetan sources like the Testament of Ba, he came to Tibet in the 8th century and helped construct Samye Monastery, the first Buddhist monastery in Tibet. However, little is known about the actual historical figure other than his ties to Vajrayana and Indian Buddhism.





the peacocks roam loose in the gardens. This one will follow you if you enter the vegetable garden - presumably to ensure you don't steal anything. He also has a decided hatred of cars, and will attack any car that drives into the monastery grounds. He doesn't seem to mind motorcycles though!
 
If you are a Buddhist, then you will understand, and know what these icons represent.
The monastery is open to people of all religions and none . It has a lovely little shop and tearooms

*Tibetan Buddhists came to Scotland after the Chinese seized control of Tibet, and His Holiness, the Dalai Lama had to flee to India, in 1959. Samye Ling was founded by brothers Akong Tulku and Yeshi Losal, who is the current Abbot of the monastery, in 1967. Akong Tulku Rinpoche was murdered, whilst on a charitable trip, in Chengdu, China on October 8th 2013.

 

LANGHOLM

Tiny little town in Dumfries and Galloway, with a very pleasant walk down by the river Esk. That's the same river which flows by the Samye Ling monastery. It was the birthplace of Thomas Telford, and an important town to the Border Reivers.




LOCKERBIE

Also in the area of Eskdale, is the small town of Lockerbie. Do you remember when you first heard of it?

Pan Am Flight 103 was a regularly scheduled Pan Am transatlantic flight from Frankfurt to Detroit via a stopover in London and another in New York City. The transatlantic leg of the route was operated by Clipper Maid of the Seas, a Boeing 747-121 registered N739PA. 
Shortly after 19:00 on 21 December 1988, while the aircraft was in flight over the Scottish town of Lockerbie, it was destroyed by a bomb that had been planted on board, killing all 243 passengers and 16 crew in what became known as the Lockerbie bombing.  Large sections of the aircraft crashed in a residential street in Lockerbie, killing 11 residents. With a total of 270 fatalities, it is the deadliest terrorist attack in the history of the United Kingdom, as well as its deadliest aviation disaster.

The parish cemetery lies just outside the town, and now, in a quiet area away from the road, stands the memorial to the lost lives of the disaster. The names of those lost are engraved on the memorial, which is entirely non-denominational, and there are plaques all round the surrounding wall, which explain how many people of each religious denomination died.  Although primarily a Christian burial ground, the cemetery is open to people of all religions and none.
The gatekeepers cottage, is now a small museum explaining all the local history, not just that of the disaster.


 MOFFAT

A small town in Dumfries & Galloway, Moffat is one of the first towns you will come across when you enter Scotland. What you will find is an enchanting little Border town, with a wide high street and quaint shops. (Try the Moffat Toffee Shop Mmmm.........) and the little bakery just down the road on the other side, which does fantastic pineapple cakes!


In the centre of the town is the statue of the Ram With No Ears, properly known as the Colvin Fountain. Moffat was a notable market in the wool trade, and this is commemorated with a statue of a ram by William Brodie in the town's marketplace. The ram was presented to the town by William Colvin, a local businessman, in 1875. The ram is missing its ears, and has been since it was first presented. According to local history, the shame of Brodie's mistake in forgetting the ram's ears, and the ridicule it received was too much for the sculptor to bear and he eventually committed suicide

TRAQUAIR HOUSE

Traquair is the oldest continuously inhabited house in Scotland, and is still very much a family home.It is not known when the exact foundations of the house were laid but a substantial structure must have existed by 1107 when Alexander 1 of Scotland signed a royal charter at Traquair. At this time the castle was used as a hunting lodge for royalty and also as a base where they could administer justice, issue laws and hold courts. At Traquair, many charters still exist. One, signed in 1175 authorised William the Lion to found a Bishop's Burgh with a right to hold a market on Thursday. This small hamlet was later to become the City of Glasgow.
During this period Traquair was nestled in the middle of the vast Ettrick Forest and provided a superb venue for royal hunting parties who came to hunt wild cat, wolves, deer, wild boar and bears who roamed the forest. A mural painting in the Museum dating back to the early 1500's depicts some of these early hunting scenes.
After the death of Alexander III in 1286 the peaceful life of the Borders was shattered by the Wars of Independence. Traquair became one of the many fortified towers or peles that were built along the banks of the Tweed. When the alarm was raised they could communicate to each other by lighting a beacon at the top of the tower and alert the neighbours of an English invasion. Traquair was briefly occupied by English troops but returned to the Crown with the accession of Robert the Bruce in 1306.
More peaceful times eventually returned to Traquair in the15th century and when James III succeeded in 1460 he gave Traquair to his current favourite Robert Lord Boyd, but when the gift was not appreciated he gave the castle to his favourite court musician, William Rogers. However, he held Traquair for only nine years when he was persuaded to sell it to the Earl of Buchan for the paltry sum of 70 Scots merks (£3 15s).
The Earl of Buchan, a half uncle to the king then gave Traquair to his second son James Stewart who became the first Laird of Traquair in 1491. Since this date the house has remained in the same family.


There are nearly 100 acres of grounds and woodlands to wander, as well as a brewery, a cafe in the old walled garden, and various craft works.
The maze (below) was planted in 1980 with over 1500 Leylandii Cypresses. But a severe winter in 1981 caused the death of 2/3 or them. The maze was replanted with beech.



The gates to the house stand open. However - at the other end of the long vista, the main drive, are another pair of gates, the Bear Gates, that are permanently locked, and will remain so until a Stuart monarch sits once again upon the throne of Scotland.


A little extra info (picture from the Traquair House web-site) - in one of the rooms upstairs on the top floor,  is a cupboard, with a space below the shelves inside, no higher than waist height. It was designed as an escape route for firstly, catholic priests, and later for Jacobite refugees. 
If you crawl into it, you will find yourself at the top of a steep, twisting staircase that leads down to the ground floor and out through a small side door, passing behind a false wall. This priest-hole and stairwell has a very spooky atmosphere ;)





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