FORDWICH

 

The pretty, unspoilt place that is Fordwich, is actually Britain's smallest town - complete with the cutest town hall! Its right to style itself a town dates from 1184, when King Henry II granted it a Merchant Gild Charter, reflecting its importance as the de facto port for Canterbury.

The original Fordwich corporation, with its liberty and privileges, was abolished in the local government reorganisation of 1886, and Fordwich Town Council today is, in legal terms, a parish council.

However, the chairman of the Council is styled the Mayor, and on ceremonial occasions wears a chain of office as well as other mayoral accoutrements. By custom the Mayor also serves as Mayor Deputy to the Mayor of Sandwich, thus preserving the historic Cinque Ports link.

The Town Hall, built in 1544, stands on the river bank, opposite the Fordwich Arms pub/hotel, in the centre of the tiny town. It is still used for civic meetings, but it also functions as a local museum. It was closed when I was there, but I will return, because, apparently, it has a ducking stool, similar to the one at Canterbury. 

The wall alongside the Fordwich Arms is where the Roman quayside was. It was still active, after the Norman invasion as the stone for Canterbury Cathedral was unloaded there, having been quarried in Caen, Normandy. It was then transported on carts to the city.

In the 13th. Century, it became involved with the Cinque Ports, through its' navigable connection to Sandwich. This is the reason why, in the church, there is a wall plaque featuring the Cinque Port Arms, and a wonderful wooden ship!

Apparently, Izaak Walton fished for trout here.

Before we get to the church (conveniently situated behind the Fordwich Arms), let's take a stroll round the town. No modern edifices here! A large portion of the buildings date back to medieval times. Others are positively modern - well, Georgian

This one is the Manor House. It was home to Alfred Palmer (see info in the church section)

'Give Ale Cottage' is a Grade II listed building. So far, I haven't been able to establish the reason behind the name.

Apparently, there are two blue plaques in Fordwich. I missed one, but found the other. Sometime when I'm passing, I'll have a look and try to find the other one. Apparently, I walked along one side of a corner house, and the plaque is round the corner!

But, here is the one I did find:

Brothers John and Gregory Blaxland were pioneer settlers and explorers in Australia. They were the sons of a Fordwich gentleman farmer, and were educated at King's School in Canteerbury.

In 1805 John and his younger brother Gregory were persuaded by Joseph Banks to emigrate to Australia. Blaxland made a good bargain with the English government which agreed that if he brought £6000 to the colony he would be granted 8,000 acres (32 km²) of land, the labour of 80 convicts who would be fed for 18 months by the government, and a free passage for himself, his wife, children and servants.

The story of how they fared in Australia, is far too complex to put here, but it is well worth looking up.

The fact that they were freemen, and not emancipated convicts, gave them a definite advantage down under, and as a pioneer grazier became an important figure as the quintessential 19th century enlightened English gentleman in the early development of Australia.

And so to St. Mary's church.......

Firstly, Over the door of the tower arch is a set of bread shelves. These were used to store bread to be given to the poor every week, according to the terms of a bequest from Thomas Bigg, who died in 1669. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to take a picture here

This is known as the Fordwich Stone. It is a very narrow rectangular block of limestone, 1.7 metres high (about 5.5 feet), covered in exquisite carvings.

The stone has traditionally been considered to be part of St Augustine's tomb. He was buried at St Augustine's Abbey at Canterbury, from whence the stone is alleged to have come.
A tomb-shaped stone like this would have been placed over the relics of an important figure such as a saint, so it is always possible that the Fordwich Stone was actually used to denote the final resting place of Augustine.
No one knows when the stone first came to Fordwich. It is known that it was removed to Canterbury Cathedral after 1760, and then returned to Fordwich in 1877. It is, without doubt, part of a shrine, but was it the shrine of St Augustine? There is nothing to base the tradition on except for the excellent quality of workmanship. It is a magnificent piece of medieval carving, and the carving can be stylistically dated to the 12th century.

I somehow missed the blue plaque to Alfred Palmer in the town, but I'll try to make up for it here. 

Alfred was a painter in oil and watercolour, sculptor and draughtsman, landscapes, portraits and figure subjects. He studied art at the Royal Academy, where he came under the influence of John Singer Sargent, and at the Académie Julian, for several years around the turn of the century. He maintained a studio in Paris and travelled regularly to Italy, Germany and Spain. He had a fine bass singing voice, which was trained while living in Florence. In 1906 married the artist Mary Croom, with whom he settled in Fordwich. Palmer continued his travels in North Africa, and his ability as a linguist led to his doing secret service work in World War I. 

Not familiar with his work? O.K. Neither was I - but I am a huge fan of his mentor, John Singer Sargent.

This alms box in the central aisle is inscribed 1953 and ER, to commemorate the coronation.

The tympanum above the chancel arch is painted with a royal coat of arms of 1688, and the text of the Ten Commandments. These are Royal Arms of James ll.  He was the last catholic monarch of England. He was deposed by the protestant William III in the ‘Glorious Revolution’, and the latter’s royal cypher, WR has been added at the top of the Arms of James II.

The interior of St Mary is filled with attractive box pews, most of which can be dated on stylistic terms to the 18th century. The easternmost pew on the north side of the nave belongs to the Corporation (the town government). There is a wrought iron holder for the corporation's gilded mace, which is displayed each year on Mayor's Sunday.

Tapestry of the Last Supper

There are several interesting memorial brasses about the church, including an effigy of Aphra Hawkins, who died in 1605. Her effigy shows her clad in lovely period costume, standing on a pedestal beneath her coat of arms. Sadly, it is quite badly worn. Aphra died in 1605, aged 21. She was the wife of Henry Hawkins, and daughter of Thomas Norton, 

In May 1883, the Kentish Gazette carried a curious news item:

'Now that the Rev. E. Brailsford, having been released from prison, has resumed his duties at Fordwich Parish Church. The good that has been done in his absence is melting away.  He has dismissed the choir, so carefully got together by the Rev. Stuart Robson, and has in other matters so thoroughly gone back to the 'Old Lines', that whereas, during his absence, the church has been crowded, the congregation has now fallen back to the half-dozen old women looking out for the charities'.

The Revd Edward Brailsford, was Rector for 41 years. He was an extreme Protestant who, in 1873, wrote and published an open letter to the then Archbishop of Canterbury, entitled Incipient Idolatry in the Church of England, berating the vicar of Sturry for having a reredos erected in his church, with the ‘highly objectionable representation’ of Jesus on the cross, and his Mother and St John nearby. He was the first incumbent for many years to reside in the parish, although he did spend periods of time living elsewhere. 

And that, folks, is all I've found out about him so far.............